Ultimate Guide to Trimming Royal Poinciana

Step-by-Step Royal Poinciana Trimming Techniques

• Safety prep: wear eye protection, gloves, and a helmet; quickly assess for deadwood, weak unions, and nearby power lines.

Three main pruning cuts and why they matter

• Thinning cuts: Remove a branch back to a lateral branch or the trunk; reduces density, improves airflow, and helps set up a strong branch structure with fewer exposed pruning wounds. Important for Royal Poinciana to prevent wind damage and sunburn on dense canopies.

• Heading cuts: Cut back to a bud or twig; this stimulates new growth from the cut point. Use sparingly on Poinciana, as heavy heading can create a crowded, top-heavy crown and encourage weakly attached shoots.

• Reduction cuts: Trim a branch back to a healthy lateral branch with a branch collar; reduces size while preserving a natural shape. Use for height control or shortening long scaffolds while keeping healing potential.

Step-by-step trimming process (5-8 steps)

1. Plan and safety check: decide the target height and crown openness; scan for power lines, structures, and signs of decay; assemble pruning gear and an appropriate ladder or pole saw.

2. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood: prune back to healthy tissue, leaving no stubs; prioritize safe angles and controlled cuts when near the trunk.

3. Address weak unions and crossings: remove the smaller limb at a fork or a limb with a narrow angle to prevent future splits; preserve the strongest, well-angled limb for future growth.

4. Reduce height and shape using the 3-cut method for large branches: locate the leader you want to shorten; make an undercut on the underside about a third of the way through; make a top cut just beyond the undercut to remove most of the weight; finish with a final cut outside the branch collar to remove the remainder.

5. Thin and open the canopy: select interior branches to remove or prune back to a strong lateral; aim for an open vase shape that increases light and air movement; avoid removing too much at once.

6. Fine-tune and establish a future plan: step back to assess balance, remove any excess stubs, and ensure remaining branches have proper angles and spacing; schedule a follow-up if needed.

Young vs mature Royal Poinciana

• Young trees (establishing years): focus on training 2-4 strong scaffold branches; avoid heavy heading; prune to encourage taper and multi-directional growth; keep the canopy balanced as it matures.

• Mature trees: prioritize safety, structural integrity, and canopy opening; gradually reduce height and remove dead wood; watch for weak unions and maintain an open center to prevent crowding.

Cutting technique and best practices

• Always cut just outside the branch collar; avoid leaving stubs or cutting flush with the trunk.

• Make the final cut at a slight angle away from the trunk to shed water and promote healing.

• For large branches, apply the 3-cut method described above to prevent bark tearing.

• Use clean, sharp tools and avoid pruning during the hottest parts of the day to reduce stress; keep wounds clean and unobstructed.

When to evaluate and pause

• After each major cut, step back and assess the overall shape, health, and balance; if the crown looks uneven, adjust with cautious follow-up cuts and consider delaying additional work to allow recovery.

• If in doubt, pause, reassess, and plan a follow-up pruning for later to let the tree recover.

Essential Tools for Trimming Royal Poinciana

Hand Pruners / Secateurs

• What they’re best for: clean, precise cuts on small, live twigs and new growth. Use these for shaping outer canopy shoots and removing small diagonally cut limbs to promote healthy regrowth.
• Branch size they handle: roughly 1/4 to 3/4 inch (6–19 mm) in diameter.
• Royal Poinciana tips: live wood is relatively pliable but still can tear if cut crooked. Use sharp bypass blades to avoid crushing the branch; cut just above a healthy bud or outward-facing leaf node to encourage the desired outward form.
• Quick technique: make a small relief cut on the underside of the target twig before finishing with a clean top cut to prevent tearing.

Loppers

• What they’re best for: medium-sized limbs and branches that are too thick for hand pruners but don’t require a saw. They give you leverage to shape the canopy with fewer muscular strains.
• Branch size they handle: about 1/2 to 1.5 inches (12–38 mm) in diameter.
• Royal Poinciana tips: aim for clean, straight cuts to minimize wound size. When removing live wood, work from the outside in and avoid leaving long stubs that can die back and invite disease.
• Quick technique: use the anvil-side lightly only if necessary; for live wood, bypass blades stay gentler on the plant.

Pruning Saw

• What they’re best for: larger deadwood or branches that can’t be safely felled with pruners or loppers. A saw is essential for thick, lingering limbs that shape the upper canopy.
• Branch size they handle: typically 1.5 to 6 inches (38–150 mm) in diameter.
• Royal Poinciana tips: choose a sturdy, medium-to-coarse tooth pattern for faster cutting; keep a smooth stroke to avoid jagged edges that can harbor disease. Always cut at a slight angle just beyond the branch collar to promote healing.
• Quick technique: stagger cuts to avoid binding; remove large sections in a series of controlled steps rather than a single heavy cut.

Pole Saw / Pruner

• What they’re best for: overhead limbs and high-canopy work without a ladder. This is especially helpful for Royal Poinciana, which often grows tall and spread-wide.
• Branch size they handle: up to about 1–2 inches (25–50 mm) diameter for clean, safe cuts; thicker limbs may require lowering via other methods or a professional.
• Royal Poinciana tips: keep the blade pointed away from your body and work from a stable stance. For taller limbs, cut in a two-step process from the outside toward the center of the canopy to avoid tearing the wood.
• Quick technique: brace the branch with your free hand (wear gloves) to reduce kickback; remove the weighty top section first to prevent sudden shifts.

Safety Gear

• Gloves protect against thorns, splinters, and tool slips.
• Eye protection shields your eyes from chips and debris during cuts.
• A helmet or hard hat helps if overhead limbs shed or crack unexpectedly.
• Sturdy, non-slip shoes give solid footing on uneven ground and beneath a canopy.

Tool Maintenance

• Sharpening: keep blades sharp for clean cuts and less plant stress; dull blades crush tissue and invite infections.
• Cleaning and sterilizing: wipe blades after each cut; between plants or after working on diseased wood, disinfect with a 10% bleach solution or 70% isopropyl alcohol to slow the spread of pathogens.
• Storage: dry, oil the blades lightly to prevent rust, and hang tools in a dry, accessible spot.

1) Inspect blades for nicks; 2) Sharpen as needed; 3) Wipe away sap and debris; 4) Sterilize between plants or after closing up a cut wound.

When to Call a Professional

• Branches larger than about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) in diameter.
• Work near power lines or any electrical infrastructure.
• Very tall or mature trees with heavy, unstable canopies or visible signs of disease or structural weakness.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Trimming Royal Poinciana

Even thoughtful trims can backfire on this dramatic tropical tree if you cut the wrong way.

Topping and Heading Cuts

• What it is: Removing the top of a main leader or cutting back to a bud without considering the tree’s natural scaffold.
• Why it’s harmful to Royal Poinciana: This species grows with a layered, open canopy. Topping invites a flush of weakly attached shoots, disrupts the natural form, and often reduces flowering wood.
• Consequences: Unbalanced crown, dense interior with poor light, increased risk of limb failure in storms, reduced bloom.
• Correct alternative: Use selective thinning and gradual reductions. Preserve a strong central leader when possible and remove branches back to a healthy lateral. Make cuts just outside the branch collar for clean healing.

Over-pruning and Flush Cuts

• What it is: Removing large portions of foliage at once or making cuts flush to the trunk.
• Why it’s harmful: Royal Poinciana relies on its foliage for energy. Heavy removal stuns photosynthesis and large wounds invite disease.
• Consequences: Decay, dieback, weak regrowth, diminished flowering.
• Correct alternative: Prune in stages, limit removal to small percentages per season, and always cut just outside the branch collar. Leave enough foliage to sustain the tree between cuts.

Stub Cuts

• What it is: Cutting a branch short in the middle, leaving a stub.
• Why it’s harmful: Stubs are weak entry points for fungi and pests and slow to callus.
• Consequences: Local decay that can spread, unsightly scars, future breakage points.
• Correct alternative: Cut back to the branch collar or remove the entire small branch back to a stronger lateral limb to maintain a clean wound.

Lion-tailing

• What it is: Removing interior growth and leaving a sparse, outer shell of foliage.
• Why it’s harmful: Interior wood needs light to stay healthy; lion-tailing creates dead zones and a top-heavy, wind-vulnerable crown.
• Consequences: Uneven canopy, poor air circulation, higher breakage risk, unattractive silhouette.
• Correct alternative: Thin evenly throughout the canopy while maintaining interior growth. Preserve a balanced, well-lit crown rather than exposing the outer layer only.

Pruning at the Wrong Time

• What it is: Pruning during active growth, right after flowering, or in heat/drought periods.
• Why it’s harmful: Poinciana flowers on new wood; pruning when buds are forming or during stress reduces bloom and recovery.
• Consequences: Fewer flowers, stressed tissue, slower healing.
• Correct alternative: Schedule light maintenance after flowering and during cooler, moderate conditions. Avoid heavy cuts in hot, dry spells; plan multi-season shaping if needed.

Using Dull or Dirty Tools

• What it is: Cutting with blunt blades or gear that isn’t clean.
• Why it’s harmful: Rough, torn edges heal poorly and dirty tools spread disease.
• Consequences: Irregular wounds, higher decay risk, slower recovery, potential pest introduction.
• Correct alternative: Sharpen blades and disinfect tools between cuts (60% alcohol or approved sanitizer). Wipe clean and rinse to prevent cross-contamination.

Not Addressing Structure and Dead Wood

• What it is: Ignoring dead limbs, crossing branches, or weak crotches.
• Why it’s harmful: Dead wood attracts pests; rubbing branches and crowded joints can lead to bark damage and structural failure.
• Consequences: Decay progression, sudden limb breakage, safety concerns, reduced tree lifespan.
• Correct alternative: Remove dead wood cleanly at the branch collar; resolve crossing branches and rebalance the canopy to build a strong, open framework. Treat any weak crotches with gradual structural pruning over seasons if needed.

When Is the Best Time to Trim Royal Poinciana?

During dormancy, you can prune with minimal disruption to growth. The primary pruning window for most Royal Poinciana is late winter to early spring, before bud break. This timing reduces stress, supports faster wound healing, makes it easier to see the tree’s structure, and lowers the risk of disease and pests entering fresh cuts.

Best overall time (late winter/early spring)

• Pruning before new growth starts lets you shape the canopy without fighting new leaves and flowers.
• Wounds heal more quickly in cooler, drier conditions, and you’re less likely to encourage new growth that you then have to manage right away.
• It’s easier to assess structure: deadwood, crossing limbs, and weak crotches are visible without dense foliage.
• If you want flowering next season, pruning early in the season is gentler than heavy cuts after bloom has begun.

Tips to maximize success:

• Aim for a window a few weeks before the first expected bud break in your area.
• Use clean, sharp tools to make clean cuts, and avoid flush cuts that can invite disease.
• Plan any major thinning gradually over one or two seasons to avoid shocking the tree.

Acceptable alternatives

• Light corrective pruning in summer when needed (e.g., to remove dead branches, clear a sidewalk, or address safety concerns). Keep cuts small and avoid heavy thinning during heat and active growth.
• Immediate pruning for dead, damaged, or hazardous branches year-round. If there’s a broken limb or a limb posing risk, don’t wait for the perfect season.
• If the tree is very young or has a weak structure, you may perform light shaping after flowering in some climates, but avoid heavy cuts during hot, dry periods.

Times to strictly avoid

• Late fall: fungal spores and cold injuries can increase disease risk and stress the tree as it prepares for dormancy.
• Active growing season with large cuts: this is when Royal Poinciana is most prone to sap flow, scarring, and potential setback to flowering; avoid heavy pruning during this period.
• Summer heat and drought: pruning in extreme heat can stress the tree, reduce wound healing capacity, and impact overall vigor.

Royal Poinciana-specific notes

• Flowering impact: This tree is a spring-blooming beauty. Heavy pruning in late winter to early spring can remove or reduce flower buds that would appear later, so reserve major shape cuts for after flowering if blooms are a priority.
• Sap flow: Unlike maples or birches, Royal Poinciana isn’t known for dramatic sap bleeding, but heavy cuts during warm spells can cause excessive sap flow and increase vulnerability to pests and sunburn on fresh wounds.
• Region matters: In milder coastal zones, buds may break earlier, so you might shift to late winter/early spring pruning a bit earlier. In colder areas, wait a bit longer toward late winter to avoid frost or quick cold snaps.

Influencing factors

• Local climate/region: Mild zones may shift the window a bit earlier; colder climates push it later in winter.
• Tree age/health: Young trees tolerate shaping better; older trees require gradual thinning and more conservative cuts to protect structural integrity.
• Current conditions: Avoid pruning during drought, after heavy rain, or during prolonged heat waves. Dry, cool days are ideal for tool handling and wound healing.

Signs that your Royal Poinciana needs trimming soon

• Dead or diseased branches.
• Crossing or rubbing limbs.
• Excessive height or weak, unbalanced structure.
• Visible storm damage or broken limbs.
• Poor canopy shape or crowded interior growth.

When you plan your next prune, remember the phrases that help homeowners plan with confidence: best time to prune Royal Poinciana, when to trim Royal Poinciana trees, Royal Poinciana dormant season pruning, and avoid pruning Royal Poinciana in fall. If you’d like, I can tailor a seasonal pruning schedule for your local climate and tree age.

These region-specific tips help homeowners tailor Royal Poinciana pruning to local conditions.

Southeast & Gulf Coast (Florida, Texas Gulf Coast, Louisiana, Puerto Rico)

• Pruning timing: Post-bloom thinning and light shaping right after flowering, then a light touch in late summer if needed. Heavy cuts during the heat and humidity increase disease risk.
• canopy management: Open up the interior to improve airflow; remove crowded and crossing branches to reduce pest harborage and fungal pressure.
• growth control: Aim for 10-25% canopy reduction per season to avoid sacrificing next year’s flower display.
• pests and disease: Monitor for scale, aphids, and caterpillars after trimming; in humid zones, keep an eye on powdery mildew and leaf spots.
• region-specific note: Royal Poinciana here likes a consistent moisture mulch layer but avoid soggy soils; in drought spells, prioritize thinning over heavy top pruning to conserve water.
• practical homeowner tips: Mulch after cuts to retain soil moisture; inspect for sap-sucking pests and treat early if needed.
• city link: Common in Miami, Orlando, and Houston landscapes? Check our Gulf Coast city guides for localized advice.
• visual placeholders:
• Insert map showing Royal Poinciana suitability in the Southeast/Gulf Coast.
• Photo placeholder: well-pruned Poinciana in a coastal Florida yard.
• eco tip: Leave small branches and clippings on the bed to feed soil life and provide mulch.

Hawaii & Other Tropical Islands

• Pruning timing: After peak flowering during the dry season to minimize disease pressure from frequent tropical rains.
• canopy management: Light, regular shaping keeps the tropical canopy airy and reduces wind shear damage during storms.
• growth control: Favor frequent, small cuts rather than large top-down removals; this preserves bloom potential.
• pests and disease: Watch for scale, whiteflies, and spider mites; humidity can amplify fungal issues, so sanitation matters.
• region-specific note: Unlike maples that bleed sap on summer pruning, Royal Poinciana is relatively dry-bleed friendly, but avoid pruning during the wettest weeks to limit disease.
• practical homeowner tips: Water well after pruning during dry spells; mulch to stabilize roots in hot, sandy soils.
• city link: Hawaii city guides offer localized tips for pruning in Honolulu and Maui climate zones.
• visual placeholders:
• Insert tropical climate map highlighting suitable zones.
• Photo placeholder: bright tropical Royal Poinciana in a shaded backyard.
• eco tip: Use clippings as light mulch around root zones to conserve moisture and support pollinators.

Southwest & Southern California (arid to semi-arid)

• Pruning timing: Late winter to early spring before the heat arrives; avoid long, hard cuts in midsummer.
• canopy management: Remove water-sapping internal growth to keep the tree compact and reduce water demand.
• water and soil care: After pruning, apply a 2–4 inch mulch ring to conserve soil moisture; monitor soil moisture and irrigate deeply but infrequently.
• pests and disease: Be vigilant for spider mites and scale; air-drying cycles lessen fungal risk.
• growth focus: Favor thinning over heavy heading to keep a balanced silhouette that tolerates Santa Ana winds.
• city link: For climate-adjusted tips, check our Southern California city guides.
• visual placeholders:
• Insert arid-land landscape photo showing a well-pruned Royal Poinciana.
• Map placeholder: rainfall and pruning windows for the Southwest.
• eco tip: Leave chipped branches on the surface to mulch bare soil and cut water loss in arid zones.

Pacific Northwest (Portland, Seattle)

• Pruning timing: Favor dry-window pruning in late winter to early spring, avoiding the wettest months to limit disease spread.
• canopy management: Keep the canopy moderately open to maximize sun penetration and reduce mildew risk in damp air.
• growth control: Limit annual cuts to 5-15% of canopy; heavy pruning can stress the tree in cooler, wet climates.
• pests and disease: Humidity fosters foliar diseases—prioritize sanitation and remove diseased wood promptly.
• region-specific note: Royal Poinciana isn’t as robust here as in tropical regions; if you plant it, expect smaller, slower growth and prune conservatively.
• practical homeowner tips: Regularly clean pruned surfaces and monitor for slug and scale activity after trimming.
• city link: Common in rainy Portland or Seattle? Check our Pacific Northwest city guides for more localized advice.
• visual placeholders:
• Insert climate-zone map highlighting the Northwest limits for Royal Poinciana.
• Photo placeholder: a softly shaped Poinciana against a gray winter sky.
• eco tip: In moist regions, compost or composting mulch after pruning to support soil microbes and wildlife.

Eco-friendly regional practices tie every tip together: wherever you prune, leave small clippings to act as mulch or soil feed, and consider native plants nearby to support pollinators and wildlife. For region-specific questions or checks about local pruning windows, our FAQs and nearby professional services are a quick click away.

Care And Maintenance for Royal Poinciana

Watering Tips

• Young trees (establishment period): water deeply 1-2 times per week during dry spells, soaking the root zone to a depth of 12–18 inches. Avoid surface-only watering.
• Established trees: rely on rainfall, but provide a deep soak during extended dry periods rather than daily light watering.
• Seasonal adjustments: in hot, dry summers, increase/extend irrigation; in wet climates or during cool seasons, scale back.
• Signs of under-watering: wilting leaves, leaf tip burn, leaf drop in hot weather, soil that pulls away from the sides of the planting hole.
• Signs of over-watering: yellowing or wilting leaves with consistently soggy soil, a musty smell, or signs of root rot.
• Quick checks: probe a small area near the drip line after watering. If the soil is still dry 6–12 inches down, it needs more water.

Mulching & Soil Health

• Benefits: improves moisture retention, reduces weeds, moderates soil temperature, and supports steady root growth.
• How to apply: spread 2–4 inches of mulch in a circle roughly 3–4 feet across around the trunk. Keep a 6-inch clear zone between mulch and the trunk.
• Materials: seasoned hardwood mulch, shredded bark, or other organic mulch. Avoid fresh sawdust in large quantities, which can tie up soil nitrogen.
• Species notes: avoid creating a thick “volcano” mound around the trunk; a flat, even layer reduces rot risk and venting moisture to the crown.

Fertilization & Soil

• When/how often: perform a soil test first. Fertilize only if a need is shown by the test or deficiency symptoms appear; many mature poincianas benefit from annual feeding in spring.
• Type: use slow-release or organic fertilizers. For flowering emphasis, choose a product with balanced nutrients and lower nitrogen; avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers directly at the root zone.
• Signs of nutrient issues: pale, interveinal chlorosis; poor leaf color; reduced flowering.
• Royal Poinciana considerations: these trees respond to balanced or phosphorus-containing fertilizers and tend to bloom better with modest nitrogen inputs. Maintain good soil structure and drainage to support nutrient uptake.

Pest & Disease Monitoring

• Common threats: borers (tunnels or frass in wood), aphids and scale (honeydew or sticky leaves), and fungal leaf spots or scorch in humid conditions; root rot can develop in poorly drained soils. Oak wilt is not a typical threat for poincianas, but monitor general wilt and scorch symptoms in related species.
• Early signs: sudden dieback, wilting, or unusual branch browning; clusters of aphids or scale on new growth; small dark spots or yellowing leaves.
• Prevention: ensure good airflow around the canopy, avoid overhead irrigation on foliage, prune with clean tools, and keep the tree stress-free with appropriate watering and mulching.
• Action thresholds: light infestations can be washed off with a strong water spray; for heavier outbreaks or persistent symptoms, consider horticultural oil, systemic controls, or professional arborist guidance.

Other Routine Care

• Winter protection: in frost-prone zones, protect young trees with a windbreak or light burlap wrap during cold snaps; apply a thin layer of mulch to insulate roots but keep it away from the trunk.
• Storm prep and recovery: before storms, remove weak or dead limbs, trim to reduce wind resistance, and ensure sturdy attachments. after storms, inspect for splits or cracks and prune damaged wood promptly.
• Competing vegetation: keep the base clear of dense grass or aggressive groundcovers to reduce water and nutrient competition.
• Girdling roots and trunk health: periodically check for roots wrapping around the trunk or shallow roots girdling the trunk. If you see potential girdling roots, consult an arborist for careful remediation to preserve trunk health.

If you follow these practical steps, your Royal Poinciana will establish strong roots, maintain healthy growth, and deliver vibrant blooms for years to come.

Benefits of Professional Royal Poinciana Trimming Services

This quick guide helps homeowners understand why hiring a certified arborist for Royal Poinciana trimming pays off.

Safety

Royal Poinciana trees are tall with heavy, strategically placed limbs. Pruning at height near power lines or over occupied spaces is best left to pros equipped with ropes, ladders, and fall protection. By hiring trained arborists, you reduce the risk of personal injury, property damage, and accidental branch drops.

• PPE, harnesses, and line clearance practices
• Controlled limb removal from the top down
• Clear debris management to prevent tripping hazards

Expertise

Certified arborists bring knowledge of Royal Poinciana biology, growth patterns, and pruning science. They know how to make cuts that promote healthy regrowth, avoid common mistakes, and spot disease or pest activity early.

• Understanding of age-related growth and weak unions
• Proper pruning cuts that minimize wound size and promote callus formation
• Early detection of issues like canker, root stress, or boring insects

Better outcomes

With expert guidance, your tree maintains a balanced canopy, structural integrity, and long-term vitality. This is especially important for Royal Poinciana, which can develop weak crotches or rapid regrowth if cut improperly.

• Balanced crown reduces wind shear risks
• Focused removal of dead, damaged, or crossing limbs
• Training cuts that support future growth without over-stressing the tree

Proper equipment & techniques

Professional crews use specialized tools and proven pruning methods that minimize stress to the tree and protect surrounding landscape.

• Clean, sterile cutting practices to prevent disease transfer
• Correct pruning angles and flush-free wounds
• Debris chipping and meticulous cleanup to protect turf and beds

Insurance & liability

Reputable arborists carry liability insurance and, often, workers’ compensation. This protects you from financial exposure if an accident occurs or property is damaged during work. Verify a certificate of insurance (COI) before work begins.

• Clear responsibility for any on-site incidents
• Peace of mind that contractors meet industry standards
• Written estimates and scope of work

Time & convenience

Pros handle the entire process—from access to cleanup—so you don’t have to wrangle gear, dispose of branches, or coordinate multiple crews.

• Efficient pruning with proper sequencing
• On-site cleanup and disposal included
• Flexible scheduling to fit your calendar

Long-term value

Investing in professional Royal Poinciana pruning can save money over time by prolonging tree life, preventing costly storms-related damage, and improving curb appeal.

• Reduced emergency pruning needs after storms
• Enhanced property aesthetics and potential resale value
• Clear maintenance plan tailored to your tree’s age and structure

Typical cost ranges

For a standard Royal Poinciana trim, expect about $200-$800 depending on size, location, and complexity. Larger or mature specimens, trees near structures or power lines, or added services like cabling or disease management can push costs higher.

• Small ornamental trims: roughly $200–$350
• Medium-sized trees with accessible crowns: $350–$600
• Large or problematic specimens (near structures, with cabling needs): $600–$800+ plus any additional services

Signs it’s time to call pros

If you notice these indicators, scheduling a professional trim is a smart move.

• Branches thicker than 4–6 inches in diameter
• Proximity to structures, driveways, or power lines
• Visible disease, fungus, cankers, or significant dieback
• Very tall trees with difficult access or reactive storm damage

What to expect when you hire a certified arborist for Royal Poinciana care:

1) Initial assessment and risk check

2) Clear scope, timeline, and written quote

3) Safe access plan and pruning strategy

4) Execution with proper cuts and minimal disturbance

5) Thorough cleanup and aftercare guidance

By choosing professional Royal Poinciana trimming, you gain safety, expertise, reliable results, and long-term value for your landscape. If you’re weighing options, consider the benefits of professional Royal Poinciana pruning advantages and the cost of hiring pros for Royal Poinciana care to guide your decision.