Ultimate Guide to Trimming Brazilian Pepper

Step-by-Step Brazilian Pepper Trimming Techniques

• Before you snip, wear sturdy gloves, eye protection, and long sleeves. Do a quick tree assessment for dead wood, disease, and nearby hazards like power lines.

Pruning Cut Types

• Thinning cuts: remove a branch at its point of origin or where it joins a larger limb, opening up the canopy. Why it matters: Brazilian Pepper benefits from improved airflow and reduced weight, which helps prevent weak unions and storm damage.
• Heading cuts: shorten a branch by trimming back to a lateral bud or small branch. Why it matters: can stimulate dense sprouting, which is often unwanted on this species; use sparingly for shape without overloading sprout growth.
• Reduction cuts: shorten a limb back to a strong lateral branch or bud, preserving the branch collar. Why it matters: keeps the tree’s natural silhouette while lowering height or weight, and minimizes suckering compared with heading cuts.

DIY Step-by-Step Trimming Process

1) Inspect and plan: identify deadwood, weak unions, crossing branches, and the areas you want to open up (usually interior passages and the topmost growth). Visualize a balanced final shape before making cuts.

2) Remove dead, diseased, and damaged wood: make clean, flush cuts back to healthy wood just outside the branch collar. This reduces infection risk and gives you a solid foundation for the rest of the work.

3) Thin interior canopy: selectively remove crowded branches to improve airflow and light. Aim to remove about 15–25% of interior branches, focusing on crossing limbs and those that rub or point inward.

4) Control height and overall size: for excessive height, perform gradual reductions by shortening select leaders to strong lateral branches at a 30–45 degree angle. Avoid topping; preserve a natural, multi-stem silhouette if possible.

5) Shape with restraint: after thinning and light reductions, step back every few cuts to assess balance. Maintain a natural, rounded look rather than a boxy or jagged silhouette.

6) If you must remove a large limb, use the 3-cut method: first undercut a few inches from the tip to prevent bark tearing, then make a top cut outside the undercut to remove the limb’s weight, and finally cut the remaining stub at the branch collar. Work incrementally and keep final cuts just outside the collar for proper sealing. Use a rope or pole saw for safety and keep your body away from the branch during the final drop.

Young vs Mature Brazilian Pepper

• Young trees: focus on training structure. Favor multiple strong leaders, open center, and gradual height control. Shorten only when needed to guide growth rather than remove large swaths at once.
• Mature trees: prioritize thinning for airflow and weight reduction, with careful reductions to maintain balance. Be mindful of slower recovery after heavier cuts; spread work over multiple sessions if several large cuts are required.

Cutting Technique and Safety

• Branch collar and angles: always cut just outside the branch collar to preserve the tree’s natural healing tissue. Make clean, angled cuts to encourage a smooth seal and reduce water retention in the wound.
• 3-cut method for large branches: as above, use the undercut/top-cut/final-cut sequence to minimize tearing and stress on the trunk.
• Climbing and tools: for higher branches, use a stable ladder or a professional-grade pole saw. Keep a clean work zone, and never work alone with limited footing around the tree.

When to Step Back and Evaluate

• After every major cluster of cuts, pause to observe the tree’s overall balance, clearance from structures or sidewalks, and remaining canopy density. If the tree looks lopsided or surfaces are too exposed, adjust with careful, small subsequent cuts rather than a large reshaping in one day.

Tip: Step back and evaluate the tree’s balance after pruning, then decide if a follow-up pass is needed.

Essential Tools for Trimming Brazilian Pepper

To tackle Brazilian Pepper effectively, start with these core tools, chosen for the tree’s dense growth and taller habit. The right toolkit helps you make clean cuts, reach awkward limbs, and stay safe while shaping or removing woody growth.

Hand pruners / secateurs

• What they’re best for: quick, precise cuts on small live wood and thin twigs.
• Branch size they handle: roughly 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter.
• Species-specific tips: use sharp bypass blades to avoid crushing live tissue; cut just outside the bud or at the branch collar for best healing.
• How to use: make clean, deliberate cuts in dry weather to minimize bark tearing; reserve for light thinning and removing dead or diseased wood.

Loppers

• What they’re best for: mid-size branches and cluttered interior of the canopy where a hand pruner can’t reach.
• Branch size they handle: typically 1 to 2 inches in diameter.
• Species-specific tips: choose straight or curved blades with bypass design to protect living wood; position yourself so you can make a single, clean slice without twisting the limb.
• How to use: clear a path through dense growth, removing select branches to improve airflow and light penetration.

Pruning saw

• What it’s best for: heavier wood, dead limbs, and branches that won’t yield to pruners or loppers.
• Branch size they handle: commonly 1 to 4 inches; some saws handle larger with effort.
• Species-specific tips: prefer a sharp, narrow-toothed pruning saw for smooth cuts; for live wood, make a relief cut on the underside to avoid bark tearing, then finish from above.
• How to use: make a sequence of cuts from the outside in, stepping back frequently to reassess shape and clearance.

Pole saw / pruner

• What it’s best for: high branches and tall specimens where a ladder would be risky or unstable.
• Branch size they handle: typically 2 to 6 inches, depending on blade length and strength.
• Species-specific tips: keep cuts small and controlled to prevent the weight of a large limb from pulling the tool off your line of sight; maintain two-handed control and avoid overextension.
• How to use: extend safely, work from stable footing, and plan a low-cut first to reduce the limb’s weight before the final cut.

Essential safety gear

• Gloves (cut-resistant, preferably with a comfortable grip)
• Eye protection (goggles or face shield)
• Helmet with face shield for overhead work
• Sturdy, non-slip closed-toe shoes
• Long sleeves and pants to protect skin from thorns and bark
• These items help prevent punctures, eye injuries, and foot/ankle strains during Brazilian Pepper work.

Tool maintenance

• Sharpening: keep pruners and saws sharp; use a quiet file or stones to maintain a clean, burr-free edge; routinely check alignment and adjust as needed.
• Cleaning/sterilizing between cuts: wipe blades with rubbing alcohol or a mild disinfectant between cuts; for pruning large wounds or suspected disease, sterilize between cuts to prevent spreading pathogens.
• Storage: dry tools after use; oil blades lightly to prevent rust; store with blade covers or in a sheath in a dry, secure location out of reach of children and pets.

When to call in professionals

• Branches larger than 4–6 inches in diameter or heavy removal work.
• Branches entangled with power lines or in close proximity to structures.
• Very tall, mature Brazilian Pepper that requires climbing or specialized rigging, or if you’re unsure about your ladder and fall risk.
• Signs of significant disease, decay, or pests that require advanced care or treatment plans.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Trimming Brazilian Pepper

Avoid these missteps to keep your Brazilian Pepper healthy and safe to prune.

Topping

• What it is: Removing the top portion of the main leaders to cut height quickly.
• Why it’s harmful: Brazilian Pepper grows vigorously, but topping creates unstable, heavy branches that are prone to breakage. It also disrupts the tree’s natural silhouette.
• Consequences: Cracked limbs, weak crotches, increased storm damage, and unsightly regrowth.
• Alternative: Use gradual height reduction with targeted removal of individual branches just outside the branch collar. Limit annual height loss and maintain a balanced crown rather than a drastic chop.

Over-pruning

• What it is: Removing large amounts of foliage or cutting too aggressively in one session.
• Why it’s harmful: Evergreen can take time to recover; excessive cuts stress the tree and invite pests or diseases.
• Consequences: Dieback, sparse canopy, uneven growth, and longer recovery times.
• Alternative: Prune in stages. Remove small amounts (roughly 20–25% of the canopy) per year and focus on thinning to improve light and air without stripping foliage.

Flush cuts

• What it is: Cutting a branch directly against the trunk or main branch, leaving no collar.
• Why it’s harmful: The exposed wound disrupts the tree’s natural healing process and invites decay and pest entry.
• Consequences: Slow healing, decay pathways, and potential branch failure later on.
• Alternative: Always cut just outside the branch collar to preserve the tree’s natural healing tissue.

Stub cuts

• What it is: Leaving a stunted, incomplete branch after pruning.
• Why it’s harmful: Stubs trap moisture and become entry points for decay and pests.
• Consequences: Rot, weak unions, and higher risk of branch failure.
• Alternative: Make clean cuts flush with the branch collar or remove branches cleanly back to a fork or trunk—no long stubs.

Heading cuts

• What it is: Cutting a branch back to a bud or shortening it to a short length without regard to structure.
• Why it’s harmful: Creates a cluster of new shoots that may be weakly attached and crowded, especially on a broad evergreen canopy.
• Consequences: Lion-tailing (dense tops with sparse interior growth), poor light penetration, and structural weakness.
• Alternative: Favor thinning cuts that remove branches back to a larger lateral branch or trunk, maintaining a balanced, open canopy.

Lion-tailing

• What it is: Removing interior growth and leaving a dense, leafy crown at the ends.
• Why it’s harmful: It traps heat and humidity in the crown, reduces airflow, and makes the tree more prone to pests and disease.
• Consequences: Increased pest pressure, fungal issues, and brittle, top-heavy limbs.
• Alternative: Thin interior growth selectively to improve air circulation and light, keeping a well-rounded form overall.

Pruning at the wrong time

• What it is: Pruning during peak growth, flowering, fruiting, or during extreme heat or wet periods.
• Why it’s harmful: Stressful conditions slow healing and invite diseases; sap loss can be substantial in hot or wet weather.
• Consequences: Increased stress, slower recovery, higher pest/disease risk, and irregular new growth.
• Alternative: Aim for late winter to early spring when the tree is dormant or during mild, dry periods. Avoid pruning during extreme heat, heavy rains, or during fruiting.

Using dull or dirty tools

• What it is: Pruning with dull blades or tools that haven’t been cleaned or sterilized.
• Why it’s harmful: Rips and tears tissue rather than clean cuts; spread of pathogens between cuts.
• Consequences: Slower healing, greater infection risk, and more visible damage over time.
• Alternative: Sharpen blades before you start and sanitize between cuts with alcohol or a bleach solution. Clean tools after each major cut to prevent cross-contamination.

• Quick tip: If in doubt, err on the side of restraint and seek a professional for large cuts or trees near structures. A few careful, well-timed cuts can keep a Brazilian Pepper healthy and looking great for years.

When Is the Best Time to Trim Brazilian Pepper?

Transitioning to best-practice pruning: the primary window is the Brazilian Pepper’s dormant season—late winter to early spring before bud break. Pruning during this window minimizes plant stress, supports faster wound healing, makes structure easier to see, and lowers the risk of disease and pest issues.

Primary pruning window (dormant season)

• Late winter to early spring, before new growth starts. This is the safest, most predictable time to shape and reduce Brazilian Pepper.
• Why it works: less active growth means cuts heal quickly, you can assess scaffold branches clearly, and there’s less risk of attracting pests or spreading disease.

Seasonal considerations

• Best overall time
• Dormant season pruning (late winter/early spring) is the preferred approach for most pruning jobs. Benefits include reduced sap flow, cooler conditions that slow disease pressure, and better visibility of the tree’s structure for clean cuts.
• Acceptable alternatives
• Light corrective pruning in summer for minor issues like a few dead or crossing branches, or to tidy up after storms.
• Immediate pruning for dead, damaged, or hazardous branches any time of year to maintain safety and health.
• Times to strictly avoid
• Late fall: higher risk of fungal spores and overwintering pathogens taking hold.
• Active growing season: heavy cuts can stress the tree, encourage vigorous re-growth that weakens structure, and increase bleed/ooze in some trees.
• Warm, droughty spells: pruning during heat and drought can stress wood and slow recovery.

Brazilian Pepper-specific notes

• Bleeding sap and wound response
• Brazilian Pepper isn’t as prone to dramatic sap bleeding as maples or birches, but heavy cuts during warm periods can cause sap flow and slower recovery. Aim for moderate cuts during dormancy and avoid large, disruptive cuts in late spring heat.
• Flowering and fruiting impact
• Heavy pruning before or during the early bloom period can reduce next season’s flowering and berry production. If your goal is shaping without sacrificing bloom, plan light trims or dead-wood removal after flowering rather than during peak bloom.
• Regional considerations
• In mild climates (e.g., southern zones), you may be able to start pruning a bit earlier in winter. In colder regions, wait until the tree is fully dormant and the threat of frost is minimal.
• Tree age and health
• Younger trees are more forgiving and respond well to careful formative pruning. Older or stressed trees should be pruned more conservatively to avoid compromising structure or vigor.

Influencing factors to consider before pruning

• Local climate/region
• Earlier pruning in milder zones, later in colder climates. Consider last frost dates and typical winter temperatures.
• Tree age/health
• Young trees: shape and scaffold development. Older trees: focus on safety, deadwood removal, and gradual correction.
• Current conditions
• Avoid pruning during drought, extreme heat, or after a heavy storm when branches are brittle or ecosystems are stressed.

Signs that your Brazilian Pepper needs trimming soon

• Dead or diseased branches
• Branches rubbing or crossing and chafing each other
• Excessive height or a top-heavy canopy
• Poor structure or weak crotches
• Recent storm damage with torn limbs

If you’re unsure, a quick, preventive trim during the dormant season is typically safer and easier to manage than reactive pruning after a problem develops. When in doubt, consult a local arborist who can assess your specific climate, tree age, and health to tailor the timing and scope of pruning for your Brazilian Pepper.

Brazilian Pepper Trimming Tips for Different Regions?

Most common coverage map for Brazilian Pepper

Think regionally: your climate shapes when and how you prune Brazilian Pepper.

Humid Southeast & Gulf Coast

• Timing and windows: prune during the dormant period in late winter to early spring. aim for dry spells; avoid heavy pruning during the height of humid, rainy seasons to reduce fungal pressure.
• Crown work: favor thinning cuts over big heading cuts to open the canopy and improve airflow, which helps prevent leaf spot and mold in hot, humid summers.
• Seasonal cautions: while Brazilian Pepper isn’t a classic sap-bleeder, heavy cuts in wet seasons can invite sap loss and disease entry. keep cuts light and spread out over several visits if needed.
• Species interactions: in humid, disease-prone zones, plan for a strict winter-to-early-spring window and monitor after trimming for pests like scale or aphids.
• Practical homeowner tips: mulch around the base after pruning to conserve soil moisture; water deeply after a trim if rainfall is scarce; inspect foliage for signs of scale or aphids post-cut.
• Local link: Common in rainy Portland or Seattle? Check our Pacific Northwest city guides for more localized advice.
• Visual placeholders:
• Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Brazilian Pepper highlights here
• Photo of well-pruned Brazilian Pepper in a humid Southeastern yard

Southwest & California Interior Valleys (arid to semi-arid)

• Timing and heat: prune in late winter (January–February) before the heat of spring, and avoid heavy pruning in late spring or summer. if you must trim in warmer periods, do only light shaping in the cool mornings.
• Water-minded shaping: lean toward lighter cuts to reduce leaf area and water demand; keep some canopy to shade roots and soil.
• Pests and disease: dry climates can slow fungal issues but can invite spider mites and scale if plants are stressed—watch after trimming and treat if needed.
• Crown adjustments: prioritize thinning to improve airflow while preserving a balanced silhouette; avoid drastic heading cuts that invite sunburn on exposed branches.
• Mulch and moisture: mulch generously to retain soil moisture and regulate soil temps; ensure drip irrigation or deep soak after trims in dry weeks.
• Visual placeholders:
• Photo of Brazilian Pepper trimmed for heat tolerance in a desert landscape
• Eco-friendly tip: leave clippings on-site where possible to mulch the soil and support soil organisms.

California Coast & Mediterranean Zones

• Timing: prune during the cool, dry part of winter to late winter/early spring; avoid pruning during the peak dry heat of summer.
• Airflow emphasis: open the canopy with selective thinning to reduce humidity pockets and fungal risk common in coastal foggy days.
• Light shaping: avoid heavy, flush cuts; aim for gradual shaping over successive visits to maintain tree vitality in windy, coastal air.
• Disease considerations: humid pockets along the coast can spread leaf spots—prioritize pruning when leaves are dry and weather is mild.
• Species interactions: even in non-bleeder species, a winter-only window helps minimize sap loss and potential pathogen entry in moist coastal climates.
• Practical tips: monitor irrigation needs after trimming; use leaf litter as a nutrient source rather than removing all mulch under the drip line.
• Visual placeholders:
• Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Brazilian Pepper highlights here
• Photo: well-pruned Brazilian Pepper in a coastal yard
• Eco-friendly tip: keep trimmings as mulch and provide habitat for local pollinators when safe to do so.

Humid Northeast & Midwest

• Dormant-season focus: stick with a strict winter pruning window in cold, humid regions to avoid disease windows in early spring and the wetter parts of late winter.
• Crown management: prioritize thinning to improve airflow and light penetration; avoid heavy heading cuts that create dense, moisture-retaining canopies.
• Sap/bleed considerations: while Brazilian Pepper isn’t a typical sap-bleeder like maples, reduce early-spring heavy cuts to minimize sap exudation and wound exposure during active growth flush.
• Disease vigilance: humid summers can foster fungal leaf spots; prune when foliage is dry and avoid pruning during wet spells.
• Pest watch: post-trim inspections for scale, aphids, and caterpillars; treat promptly if populations rise.
• Practical tip: apply a shallow mulch ring and keep a consistent watering plan to help the tree recover from pruning stress.
• Visual placeholders:
• Photo of a winter-pruned Brazilian Pepper with open crown
• Eco-friendly tip: recycle clippings as mulch and choose native-friendly pests controls to protect local wildlife.

• Final regional eco tip: wherever you prune, leave clippings onsite as mulch to improve soil health, and avoid broad-spectrum sprays that harm beneficial insects critical to your yard’s ecosystem.

Care And Maintenance for Brazilian Pepper

Watering

• Young trees: water deeply 1–2 times per week during the first growing season, then ease into a deep, infrequent pattern as roots establish. Aim to soak the root zone to a depth of 12–18 inches.
• Established trees: provide deep watering during prolonged dry spells (every 2–3 weeks in hot, dry periods). In cool or wet climates, you may need far less frequent watering.
• Seasonal adjustments: more water during dry summers; reduce irrigation in consistently moist seasons to avoid standing water.
• Signs to watch for: wilting or leaf scorch means you probably need water; yellowing, soft, boggy soil or a consistently waterlogged root zone means you’re overwatering.
• Brazil-specific note: Brazilian Pepper tolerates drought once established but prefers steady moisture in the root zone. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely for long periods, especially in hot climates.

Mulching

• Benefits: mulch improves moisture retention, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature, and protects shallow roots.
• How to apply: spread 2–4 inches of mulch over the root zone, extending well beyond the drip line. Keep mulch about 6 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
• Materials: use coarse wood mulch, bark fines, or well-aged pine straw. Avoid fresh chips that can rob nitrogen as they decompose.
• Cautions: never mound mulch into a volcano around the trunk; this traps moisture against the bark and can cause collar rot. Check and refresh mulch annually.

Fertilization & Soil

• When and how often: start with a soil test every 2–3 years to guide any fertilizer decisions. Apply fertilizer only during active growth (late winter to early spring in most regions).
• Type: use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer labeled for trees (for example, something like 10-10-10 or an equivalent), or an organic option such as composted manure or well-aged compost applied at the labeled rate.
• Application tips: follow label directions carefully; water in well after feeding to help move nutrients into the root zone.
• Signs of nutrient issues: interveinal yellowing (iron deficiency), overall pale foliage, stunted growth, or premature leaf drop.
• Brazilian Pepper-specific notes: avoid excess nitrogen, which can spur lush foliage at the expense of root development and long-term vigor. If you see unusually leafy growth with weak wood, scale back feeding and re-check soil nutrients.

Pest & Disease Monitoring

• Common threats: borers (exit holes, frass on stems), aphids, scale, spider mites, and various fungal issues such as leaf spot or root rot under persistently wet conditions.
• Early signs to catch: unusual wilting, honeydew or sticky residue (aphids/scale), small holes or chewed bark (borers), powdery or darkening spots on leaves, or sudden canopy thinning.
• Prevention basics: ensure good airflow around the canopy, avoid over-watering, prune to remove dense interior growth, and keep tools clean to avoid spreading disease.
• When to act or call pros: if you see widespread branch dieback, heavy trunk damage, or persistent infestations despite basic care, consider professional assessment. Severe infestations or suspected root rot may require targeted treatment or removal of affected parts.

Other Routine Care

• Winter protection: in frost-prone areas, protect young trees with lightweight wrap or burlap on the trunk during cold snaps. In warm climates, this is usually unnecessary.
• Storm prep and recovery: prune to remove weak or crossing limbs ahead of storms; after a storm, inspect for cracks, splits, or broken branches and prune carefully for safety and health.
• Competing vegetation: keep the base clear of grass and aggressive weeds to reduce soil competition and to improve air circulation around the trunk.
• Girdling roots and trunk checks: periodically inspect the base for roots that wrap around the trunk or for signs of rubbing or damage. Girdling roots can threaten long-term stability; consult a pro if you notice persistent issues.
• Quick routine checklist:
• Inspect canopy and soil monthly during growing season.
• Refresh mulch each spring.
• Test soil every 2–3 years.
• Tidy up after storms and prune for structure and airflow.

Benefits of Professional Brazilian Pepper Trimming Services

Hiring professional Brazilian Pepper trimming services can dramatically improve safety, health, and long-term value for your tree—and for your property. Here are the key advantages you gain when you hire a certified arborist for Brazilian Pepper.

Safety

• Working at height and handling heavy, unpredictable limbs requires training, protective gear, and proper rigging. Pros have fall protection, saddle gear, and experienced spotters.
• Brazilian Pepper can have dense crowns and brittle branches that shed unexpectedly. Pros plan cuts to minimize kickback and avoid injury to people, pets, and property.
• Near power lines or structures, qualified crews assess clearance, de-energize lines when needed, and execute safer pruning methods.

Expertise

• Certified arborists know Brazilian Pepper biology: where the growth is strongest, how sap bleeds, and how to balance a canopy without weakening the tree.
• They apply correct pruning cuts to prevent bark tearing, branch tear-out, or weak unions that invite failure after storms.
• Early detection of disease, pests, or decay allows for targeted treatments or removal before problems spread.

Better outcomes

• Pruning done by pros supports healthier regrowth and a stronger, more balanced structure.
• Regular, well-timed trims help prevent structural flaws and reduce the risk of branch failure during high winds.
• For Brazilian Pepper with weak unions or bleeders, proper cuts and thinning preserve vigor and long-term stability.

Proper equipment & techniques

• Pros use clean, sterilized tools and the right pruning techniques to minimize stress and disease transmission.
• They bring specialty equipment like pole saws, ropes, and rigging systems to access hard-to-reach limbs without tearing bark.
• They ensure a neat work site and thorough cleanup, reducing debris that could harbor pests or fungi.

Insurance & liability

• Reputable crews carry liability insurance (and often workers’ comp), protecting you from property damage or on-site injuries.
• When you hire a licensed, insured pro, you’re not personally liable for accidents that happen during the job.
• If you tackle a project yourself and something goes wrong, you absorb the full risk—unlike with insured professionals.

Time & convenience

• Pros handle planning, access, limb removal, cleanup, and disposal, saving you days of work and mess.
• They coordinate with you on access, timing, and any required permits or notifications.
• You get predictable results and a faster turnarounds for larger or more complex jobs.

Long-term value

• Proper Brazilian Pepper pruning can extend the tree’s life, reduce maintenance costs over time, and improve curb appeal.
• A well-maintained tree can contribute to property value and neighborhood aesthetics, making the home more attractive to buyers.
• Investing in professional pruning reduces chances of emergencies that lead to costly fixes or removals later.

Cost considerations

• Typical cost ranges: For a standard Brazilian Pepper trim, expect $200-$800 depending on size, location, and complexity. Higher quotes apply to large or mature specimens or when add-ons like cabling, removal, or storm-damage response are included.
• This aligns with the benefits of professional Brazilian Pepper trimming and the cost of hiring pros for Brazilian Pepper care, reflecting the value of safety, expertise, and long-term health.

Signs it's time to call pros

• Branches larger than 4–6 inches diameter are close to structures, walkways, or power lines.
• The canopy is uneven, with deadwood or rubbing branches that cause scarring.
• You notice disease symptoms (discolored foliage, cankers, oozing sap) or signs of pests.
• The tree is very tall or heavily weighted on one side, raising risk in storms.
• You’re considering structural support (cabling/bracing) or large thinning to reduce wind resistance.

When to hire a certified arborist for Brazilian Pepper

• For essential pruning, safety-critical cuts, and prevention of common issues like bleeders and storm vulnerability, hire certified arborist for Brazilian Pepper care. You’ll get expert guidance, documented results, and ongoing maintenance plans that keep your tree healthier longer.