Ultimate Guide to Trimming European Fan Palm

Step-by-Step European Fan Palm Trimming Techniques

Safety prep

• Safety gear on: goggles, gloves, and a hard hat if using a ladder. Stand back and assess the palm for dead fronds, weak attachments, and any hazards around the trunk or base.

Three main pruning cuts

• Thinning cut: Remove a whole frond at its base where it meets the trunk. This opens the crown, improves light penetration, and speeds up the removal of diseased or damaged fronds without leaving a jagged stub.
• Heading cut: Trim a portion of a frond to shorten it. Use sparingly on European fan palms; avoid heavy heading on healthy fronds to prevent ragged edges and unnecessary stress.
• Reduction cut: Shorten the crown height by removing whole fronds or portions to bring the canopy down gradually. Best done in small increments over a season to protect photosynthesis and overall vigor.

DIY trimming process

1) Do a quick canopy health check and plan your cuts. Mark fronds that are dead, diseased, or clearly weak, and decide where thinning will improve air flow and light.

2) Start with dead and diseased fronds (thinning cut). Cut them cleanly at the base, just above the trunk, using a straight, smooth motion.

3) Thin interior fronds first to open center space. This helps prevent mold and pests and creates a balanced silhouette.

4) When a frond is heavy or has a weak attachment, use a controlled 3-cut approach to remove it without tearing the trunk:

• Notch cut underneath near the base to relieve tension.
• Cut from the top to remove the majority, leaving a hinge or small stub.
• Complete the cut flush with the trunk, cleanly removing the remaining piece.

5) If height or crown density needs reduction, perform gradual reductions. Remove one or two of the tallest fronds or trim a small portion of the outer crown at a time, spreading cuts across multiple sessions to avoid shocking the plant.

6) Clean up debris, inspect wounds for clean edges, and avoid painting or sealing palm wounds—palms heal through natural callus formation.

Young vs mature palms

• Young European fan palms (established but not mature): prune conservatively, focusing on dead/diseased fronds and light thinning to help establishment. Do not remove more than about a quarter of the fronds in a season.
• Mature palms: be especially conservative. Limit removals to dead, diseased, or hazardous fronds and use gradual reductions if height or density needs adjustment. Aim for maintaining a healthy canopy that supports photosynthesis while reducing risk.

Cutting technique

• Palms lack a true branch collar, so cuts should be made just above the petiole base where it meets the trunk. This minimizes wound size and encourages faster, cleaner healing.
• When removing fronds, approach with clean, smooth strokes and favor a small, slight angle away from the trunk to direct water away from the cut.
• For large fronds, the 3-cut method described above helps prevent tearing and damage to the crown or trunk.

When to step back and evaluate

• After completing a few strategic cuts, step back at arm’s length and view the palm from multiple angles. Check for balance, symmetry, and whether light and air now move through the crown evenly. If one side looks heavier, substitute a few more thinning cuts on the opposite side for balance.

Last tip

• If you notice signs of disease at the base or unusual weakness in multiple fronds, pause the trim and reassess—safety and tree health come before appearance.

Essential Tools for Trimming European Fan Palm

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

• Best for: removing small dead fronds, trimming damaged leaflets, pruning around the crown without disturbing healthy tissue.
• Branch size it handles: up to about 1 inch in diameter.
• Species-specific tip: use sharp bypass blades to avoid crushing live wood; a clean, smooth cut helps the palm heal quickly.
• How to use (steps):

1) Inspect the frond or leaflet to identify the exact cut point at the base of the petiole.

2) Position pruners at a clean angle, just above the cut line.

3) Make a single smooth cut, then wipe blades to remove sap or debris.

Loppers

• Best for: larger dead fronds, thick petioles near the crown, and branches that are still reachable from the ground.
• Branch size it handles: roughly 1 to 2 inches in diameter.
• Species-specific tip: choose bypass loppers for a clean cut and to minimize damage to surrounding live tissue.
• How to use (steps):

1) Grab the frond or petiole near the base and guide the cut line well away from your stance.

2) Align the blades so they meet evenly across the branch.

3) Squeeze in a steady, controlled motion; remove debris and inspect the cut.

Pruning Saw

• Best for: medium-sized branches and any portion of the crown that’s beyond pruner or lopper reach.
• Branch size it handles: typically 1.5 to 3 inches in diameter (some saws cut larger; know your blade’s limit).
• Species-specific tip: use a sharp blade and consider a two-cut method to prevent bark tearing on live wood.
• How to use (steps):

1) Make a small relief cut on the underside to prevent the wood from tearing.

2) Make the final top cut from the outside of the branch toward the center.

3) Pause to clear sawdust, then trim any ragged fibers with pruners if needed.

Pole Saw / Pruner

• Best for: tall European Fan Palms, hard-to-reach crown fronds, and branches high above ground.
• Branch size it handles: commonly up to about 2 inches in diameter; some stronger poles will handle slightly larger, but assess the blade and leverage first.
• Species-specific tip: maintain steady tension and use controlled, short cuts to avoid flailing or swinging the tool into sensitive areas.
• How to use (steps):

1) Secure footing and, if possible, tie a safety rope or use a harness when cutting from height.

2) Reach the target frond and position the saw or cut behind the branch, avoiding kickback.

3) Make a clean cut with deliberate pressure, then lower the cut piece safely.

Safety Gear

• Gloves, eye protection, helmet, and sturdy shoes are essential. Palm fronds can have sharp edges, spines, or rough fibers that can injure hands or eyes; a helmet helps protect against falling debris, and sturdy shoes keep stability on uneven ground. Gloves with good grip reduce slips when handling slick fronds or wet wood.
• Short note: wear a long-sleeve shirt or sleeves you don’t mind getting snagged to protect your arms during pruning.

Tool Maintenance

• Sharpening: keep blades sharp on hand pruners and loppers; a sharp edge reduces tearing and makes cleaner cuts. For saws, sharpen per manufacturer guidance to maintain effective cutting.
• Cleaning and sterilizing between cuts: wipe blades after each cut, then sterilize between cuts to prevent disease spread through the plant tissue (use a 10% bleach solution or 70% alcohol and dry before the next cut).
• Storage: clean and dry tools after use, oil metal parts to prevent rust, and store with blade guards or sheaths in a dry location.

When to Call Professionals

• For branches larger than about 4–6 inches in diameter, work near power lines, or very tall mature European Fan Palms, professional arborists are advised.
• If you’re unsure about trimming near the crown or lacking the right height or equipment, a pro can safely complete the job without risking injury or palm health.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Trimming European Fan Palm

Avoid these mistakes to protect your palm’s health and long life.

Topping the Crown

• What it is: Removing the growing point or cutting the top of the crown to shorten height.
• Why it’s harmful for European Fan Palm: These palms grow from a single crown. Topping disrupts the growing point and forces regrowth from below, which is weak and prone to pests and disease.
• Consequences: Unstable, spindly new growth; ragged crown; higher risk of heart rot and branch failure in wind.
• Better approach: Do not top. If height is an issue, lower height gradually by removing outer, old fronds over multiple seasons, or consult a pro for alternatives.

Over-pruning (removing too many fronds)

• What it is: Cutting away a large portion of the green fronds, not just dead or damaged ones.
• Why it’s harmful: Palms rely on their fronds for photosynthesis and energy storage. European Fan Palm regrows slowly and heavily pruning steals essential energy.
• Consequences: Stunted growth, crown thinning, increased vulnerability to drought, pests, and disease; shorter lifespan.
• Better approach: Limit removal to dead, diseased, or damaged fronds (often no more than 10–20% of the canopy in a given year). Maintain a robust, evenly distributed crown.

Flush cuts and stub cuts

• What it is: Cutting straight into the trunk or leaving a stub where the frond attaches.
• Why it’s harmful: Palms don’t heal like many trees. Wounds that go into the trunk or are left as stubs invite decay, pests, and fungi.
• Consequences: Decay pockets, cankers, trunk weakness, and potential limb or trunk failure.
• Better approach: Cut cleanly at the base of the frond where it meets the trunk, leaving a smooth, minimally scarred wound. Use a sharp, clean blade and avoid penetrating the trunk.

Lion-tailing (uneven thinning)

• What it is: Removing mainly the lower or outer fronds, leaving a bare trunk with a green crown on top.
• Why it’s harmful: It creates an unnatural silhouette and reduces the trunk’s shaded protection; the crown becomes uneven, and new growth is stressed.
• Consequences: Aesthetic drawbacks, sunburn risk on exposed trunk tissue, and faster functional aging of the palm.
• Better approach: Maintain an even, balanced crown around the circumference. Remove dead/damaged fronds evenly and conservatively.

Pruning at the wrong time (seasonality)

• What it is: Pruning during adverse weather, drought, or extreme cold.
• Why it’s harmful: Fresh cuts in cold snaps or during heat waves intensify stress and slow recovery.
• Consequences: Increased leaf yellowing, slower regrowth, higher susceptibility to pests and disease.
• Better approach: Prune in mild, dry periods—ideally late winter to early spring when new growth begins. Avoid pruning during extreme heat or cold or during drought.

Using dull or dirty tools

• What it is: Pruning with blunt blades or tools that aren’t clean.
• Why it’s harmful: Jagged cuts traumatize tissue and can propagate disease; dirty tools spread pathogens between plants.
• Consequences: Irregular wound edges, slower healing, and higher infection risk.
• Better approach: Sharpen blades before use, disinfect tools between cuts (alcohol or diluted bleach), and prune with clean, smooth strokes.

Sealing wounds or applying coatings

• What it is: Painting, tar-ing, or sealing cuts after pruning.
• Why it’s harmful: Wound dressings can trap moisture and pathogens; palms don’t rely on sealants to heal and often do better with natural drying.
• Consequences: Moisture buildup, fungal growth, and delayed natural healing.
• Better approach: Let wounds air-dry and heal naturally. If disease or rot is suspected, remove the affected frond and sanitize tools. For persistent issues, consult a qualified arborist.

When Is the Best Time to Trim European Fan Palm?

Pruning timing matters as much as what you prune.

The primary pruning window for most European Fan Palms is the dormant season—late winter to early spring before bud break. Pruning during this time minimizes stress, supports quicker wound healing, makes the crown easier to assess, and lowers the risk of disease and pests taking hold in fresh cuts.

Best overall time

• Dormant season: late winter to early spring, before new fronds begin to unfurl.
• Benefits: reduced plant stress, faster wound sealing, clearer visibility of structure, and lower disease/pest risk.

Acceptable alternatives

• Light corrective pruning in summer: Remove dead, damaged, or crossing fronds in small amounts. Avoid heavy cuts or removing large portions of the crown during heat.
• Immediate pruning for hazards: If a frond is broken, diseased, or poses a safety risk, prune promptly, regardless of season.
• Instant attention for storm damage: After a storm, assess and prune only what’s necessary to stabilize the plant, then resume regular timing.

Times to strictly avoid

• Late fall to early winter in many regions: higher risk of disease spread and unfavorable conditions for wound healing.
• Heavy cuts during the active growing season: palms push new growth in warm periods; large removals can stress the plant and invite issues.
• Extreme heat or drought periods: pruning during heat waves or drought can stress the palm and limit recovery.

European Fan Palm-specific notes

• Crown health: European Fan Palms rely on their fronds for photosynthesis. Avoid removing more green fronds than necessary; target only dead, damaged, or rubbing fronds.
• Flowering and inflorescences: If your goal includes preserving bloom or potential seed production, be cautious about removing inflorescences during growth periods. Pruning that focuses on dead or damaged fronds generally preserves flowering potential.
• Sap and wounds: Unlike maples or birches, European Fan Palms don’t “bleed” sap in the same way, but large cuts in warm, wet conditions can invite fungal or bacterial issues. Seal or clean cuts as needed and monitor for signs of disease after pruning.
• Climate considerations: In milder coastal zones, some pruning may be feasible a bit earlier in late winter, but in colder inland areas, stick to late winter/early spring as the safe window.

Influencing factors to decide timing

• Local climate/region
• Earlier in mild zones, later in cold climates.
• Tree age/health
• Younger palms tend to recover quickly; older or stressed palms need conservative pruning.
• Current conditions
• Avoid pruning during drought, extreme heat, or after heavy rainfall when the crown is more vulnerable.

Signs your European Fan Palm needs trimming soon

• Dead or diseased fronds hanging from the crown
• Fronds that cross or rub against each other
• Crown appears overcrowded or top-heavy
• Visible structural weakness or poor branching pattern
• Recent storm damage or frond breakage

If you’re unsure, start with a light assessment during the late winter to early spring window and remove only what’s clearly dead, damaged, or obstructive. For any larger crown reductions, consider an arborist’s assessment to protect the palm’s health and long-term shape. Remember the key phrases: best time to prune European Fan Palm, when to trim European Fan Palm trees, and European Fan Palm dormant season pruning, to keep your planning aligned with practical, homeowner-friendly advice. Avoid pruning European Fan Palm in fall, and always prioritize safety and plant health in your decision.

European Fan Palm Trimming Tips for Different Regions?

Most common coverage map for European Fan Palm

Across the U.S., regional conditions shape the best trimming approach for European Fan Palm.

Pacific Northwest

• Timing: Target late winter to early spring before new growth. Avoid pruning in the height of wet season to minimize fungal risk.
• Pruning approach: Light thinning and removal of dead or damaged fronds only. Keep a balanced crown to promote airflow in humid air.
• Pests and diseases: Humid climates mean watch for scale, mealybugs, and rust. Sterilize tools between trees to prevent spread.
• Practical tips: Mulch stations around the drip line after cuts to help soil stay cool and moist, reducing stress on the tree.
• Regional interaction: In rainy Portland or Seattle? Check our Pacific Northwest city guides for more localized advice.
• Visual placeholder: Insert map of U.S. climate zones with European Fan Palm highlights here.

Southwest (Arid / Desert)

• Timing: Prune in late winter to early spring, after any cold snaps, to reduce sunburn on exposed cuts.
• Pruning approach: Keep cuts shallow and avoid heavy thinning. Focus on removing dead fronds and below-canopy clearance for airflow, not size reduction.
• Water and sun: After pruning, water promptly to protect wounds and help healing; mulch helps retain soil moisture.
• Pests and diseases: Drought-prone areas see fewer fungal issues, but monitor for spider mites and scale after trimming.
• Practical tips: Use reflective mulch and avoid pruning during peak heat to minimize plant stress.
• Regional interaction: Common in arid landscapes like parts of Phoenix or Las Vegas? See our Southwest city guides for local tweaks.
• Visual placeholder: Photo of well-pruned European Fan Palm in arid Southwest landscape.

Southeast (Humid Subtropical)

• Timing: Prune during the cooler, drier window in late winter to early spring; avoid rainy months to reduce leaf spots and rot.
• Pruning approach: Light thinning to maintain shape and air movement; avoid removing more than one-third of fronds at a time.
• Humidity considerations: Higher humidity elevates fungal risk; remove oldest fronds promptly to prevent disease buildup.
• Practical tips: Rinse pruning tools after use to minimize disease transfer; watch for scale and whiteflies post-cut.
• Regional interaction: For palms near oaks or other disease-prone hosts, stick to winter-only windows to reduce disease transmission risk.
• Visual placeholder: Insert a close-up shot of a palm crown with fresh pruning wounds.

Northeast (Cool, Humid Summers)

• Timing: Favor pruning after the last hard frost, typically late winter to early spring.
• Pruning approach: Prefer smaller, incremental thinning rather than heavy cuts; focus on removing dead fronds and crowded areas.
• Seasonal caution: Avoid major cuts in late summer when heat and humidity stress the plant and encourage rot.
• Practical tips: Ensure good drainage around the root zone; monitor for bud-break signals to time cuts with new growth.
• Regional interaction: In humid pockets, summer pruning is generally discouraged; winter windows are preferred.
• Visual placeholder: Landscape shot showing a European Fan Palm maintained against a brick wall in cool summers.

Midwest (Cold Winters, Variable Moisture)

• Timing: Prune during the late winter to early spring thaw, after frost risk has eased.
• Pruning approach: Gentle thinning to maintain overall form; avoid heavy pruning that invites winter sunscald on exposed trunks.
• Moisture management: If springs are wet, prune with care to minimize disease exposure; otherwise, keep wounds clean and dry.
• Pests and diseases: Look for powdery mildew and scale after trimming; treat promptly if spotted.
• Practical tips: Layer compostable clippings around the base to improve soil structure and moisture retention in transitional seasons.
• Regional interaction: Check local extensions for any region-specific disease alerts that could affect pruning timing.
• Eco-friendly note: Leave small shredded frond bits as mulch where practical to reduce yard waste and support soil health.

Eco-friendly regional practices

• Leave harmless clippings on the soil as mulch where feasible to conserve moisture and feed soil biology.
• Favor clean, sterilized tools to protect regional tree health and wildlife habitats.
• Support local wildlife by leaving a few undisturbed fronds or planting margins that provide cover for beneficial insects.

Insert map of U.S. climate zones with European Fan Palm highlights here

Insert map of U.S. climate zones with European Fan Palm highlights here

• For additional localized insight, explore our city guides like the Pacific Northwest pages, Southwest pages, and humid-climate guides for trimming European Fan Palm care in humid climates.

End note: In all regions, consider regionally appropriate, eco-friendly practices—mulch after cuts, monitor for pests post-trim, and coordinate with a local arborist for long-term health and safety.

Care And Maintenance for European Fan Palm

Watering

• Do deep, infrequent waterings rather than daily shallow ones. This encourages root growth outward and helps the tree tolerate drought once established.
• Young trees (first 1–2 years): water 2–3 times per week during hot, dry periods. Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy.
• Established trees: water about every 7–14 days during dry spells. Adjust for rainfall and soil type. In consistently damp climates, you may need far less frequent watering.
• Seasonal adjustments:
• Dry summers: increase watering as needed to keep the root zone moist.
• Wet or cool seasons: scale back; let rainfall do the work if the soil stays moist.
• Signs to watch for:
• Underwatering: wilting or drooping fronds, leaf tips browning, soil that stays dry several inches down.
• Overwatering: yellowing fronds, soft or mushy trunk base, a musty smell or mold near the base.
• Palm-specific note: European fan palms tolerate drought once established but hate long periods of soggy soil. Aim for consistent moisture without standing water.

Mulching

• Benefits at a glance:
• Improves moisture retention
• Reduces weeds and soil temperature swings
• Helps protect shallow roots
• How to apply:
• Spread 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) of mulch in a wide ring that reaches the drip line.
• Keep mulch away from the trunk—no volcano mounds. A clean ring around the base minimizes rot risk.
• Width-wise, extend mulch coverage beyond the trunk to shade the root zone.
• Best materials: shredded hardwood or bark, pine straw, well-aged compost. If using decorative mulch, ensure it's not a magnet for pests.
• Species notes: avoid piling mulch directly against the trunk, which can trap moisture and invite rot. Refresh mulch annually or after heavy rains.

Fertilization & Soil

• When and how often:
• Apply a palm-specific slow-release fertilizer 2–3 times per year—late winter to early spring and again in midsummer. Avoid heavy late-season feeding.
• What to use:
• Choose a fertilizer formulated for palms with micronutrients (Mg, Mn, Fe). Organic options (compost, well-rotted manure, fish emulsion) can supplement but may need more frequent applications.
• Signs of nutrient issues:
• Interveinal yellowing (chlorosis), pale green fronds, stunted growth, brown leaf tips.
• European Fan Palm considerations:
• Avoid excess nitrogen; it can spur soft, lush growth that’s more vulnerable to pests and cold damage.
• Soil thoughts:
• Well-draining soil is essential. Aim for a neutral to slightly acidic pH. If your soil is alkaline and chlorosis appears, consider chelated iron applications or targeted soil amendments, and ensure good drainage.

Pest & Disease Monitoring

• Common threats:
• Pests: palm borers, scale, aphids, and spider mites.
• Diseases: leaf spots, bud rot, and root rot in poorly drained soils.
• Oak wilt note: not a palm disease, but stress from nearby oak trees can indirectly affect palms; keep trees healthy to reduce vulnerability.
• Early signs:
• Chewed or bore-hole marks in trunks, sticky residue from sap-sucking insects, yellowing or browning of fronds, unsightly spots or necrosis on leaves.
• Prevention:
• Ensure good airflow around the crown, avoid overhead irrigation on foliage, use clean tools, and promptly remove diseased or dead fronds.
• Space plants to prevent canopy-to-canopy disease spread; monitor neighboring plants for issues.
• Action steps:
• For light pest pressure, use horticultural oil or insecticidal soap on soft-bodied pests.
• For suspected borers or heavy infestations, or persistent disease signs, contact a certified arborist for targeted treatment.

Other Routine Care

• Winter protection: in colder climates, provide frost protection for crown growth. Use frost cloths or burlap during cold snaps, and avoid plastic that traps moisture around the crown.
• Storm prep and recovery:
• After storms, remove broken or severely damaged fronds; prune only dead or hazardous material.
• Do not aggressively prune to shape before or after a storm, as healthy growth can help recover.
• Competing vegetation:
• Clear grass and aggressively competing plants from the base to reduce water competition and pest habitat.
• Girdling roots and trunk checks:
• Periodically inspect the base for roots wrapping or girdling the trunk. If you see tight roots or cracking, consult an arborist.
• General best-practices:
• Regular, light maintenance is easier on both you and the tree than infrequent heavy pruning.
• Keep an eye on overall crown appearance; a healthy palm should have a full, fan-shaped crown with evenly colored fronds.

If you’d like, I can tailor these guidelines to your climate zone and soil type for a personalized care plan.

Benefits of Professional European Fan Palm Trimming Services

For European Fan Palms, hiring professionals brings tangible benefits that go beyond a tidy crown.

Key benefits of hiring a certified arborist for European Fan Palm trimming

• Safety: Tall, heavy branches and proximity to power lines or structures demand specialized rigging and PPE. Pros manage heights, wind risk, and fall hazards, reducing the chance of injury or property damage.
• Expertise: Certified arborists know European Fan Palm biology, growth patterns, and common stress signs. They make proper cuts that encourage healthy regrowth, spot disease or pest early, and avoid common damage like over-pruning or tear-out at the crown.
• Better outcomes: Professional pruning supports healthier canopy balance, stronger trunks, and longer tree life. By addressing weak unions, bleeders, or storm-vulnerability issues, pros help your palm withstand weather and age gracefully.
• Proper equipment & techniques: Pros bring palm-specific tools, clippers that minimize tissue damage, and clean, sterile cuts. They use techniques that minimize stress to the plant and maximize regrowth vitality.
• Insurance & liability: Reputable companies carry liability and workers’ comp. This protects you if an accident occurs or if a tool slips during an access maneuver. Always verify certificates of insurance before work begins.
• Time & convenience: The team handles the heavy lifting, cleanup, and disposal. You won’t be left dealing with debris or transporting green waste to the curb, which saves you time and hassle.
• Long-term value: Regular professional care can prevent emergencies, maintain structural integrity, and preserve curb appeal. A well-maintained palm tends to require fewer costly interventions later and often adds aesthetic value to your property.

Cost overview

For a standard European Fan Palm trim, expect $200-$800 depending on size, location, and complexity. Higher fees apply for large or mature specimens or when additional services are requested, such as cabling, pest treatment, or disease remediation. When you hire a pro, you’re paying for expertise, efficiency, and a cleaner, safer result that’s often worth the investment. This is part of the broader topic: cost of hiring pros for European Fan Palm care.

Signs it’s time to call pros

• Branches exceed 4–6 inches in diameter or are growing toward structures or lines.
• The crown is asymmetrical, heavily top-heavy, or prone to splitting in wind.
• You see disease symptoms (discolored fronds, palm wilt, or unusual rust/powder) or signs of pests.
• The palm is tall or in a hard-to-reach location, making safe trimming impractical.
• You want preventative shaping, cabling, or storm-ready pruning to reduce future damage.

What to expect when you hire pros

1) Assessment and scope: A certified arborist evaluates risk, growth stage, and target outcome.

2) Plan and safety steps: You receive a pruning plan, timeline, and safety measures tailored to your palm and yard.

3) Pruning execution: Clean cuts are made with palm-specific techniques, prioritizing health and structure.

4) Cleanup and disposal: Debris is removed, and the site is left tidy, with palm fronds and waste handled properly.

5) Follow-up care: They may offer a maintenance schedule and advise on irrigation, nutrition, or disease monitoring to sustain palm health.

If you’re weighing options, remember the benefits of professional European Fan Palm trimming include safer access, informed pruning, cleaner results, and long-term value for your landscape. When you’re ready to hire, look for a certified arborist with palm pruning experience, solid insurance, and clear upfront pricing. This approach aligns with the search phrases you’ll see often: benefits of professional European Fan Palm trimming, hire certified arborist for European Fan Palm, professional European Fan Palm pruning advantages, and cost of hiring pros for European Fan Palm care.