Ultimate Guide to Trimming Pitch Pine

Step-by-Step Pitch Pine Trimming Techniques

Safety and assessment: Start with eye protection, gloves, and a sturdy ladder if needed; take a quick health check of the tree and note any weak unions or deadwood before you cut.

Three main pruning cuts for Pitch Pine

• Thinning cuts: Remove branches back to a healthy lateral or to the trunk. Why it matters: reduces crowding, boosts airflow and light, and helps keep Pitch Pine’s natural silhouette without overloading wood at weak points.

• Heading cuts: Shorten growth to a bud or short stub. Why it matters: can shape quickly, but on Pitch Pine it can encourage dense sprouting and weaker attachments if overused—use sparingly and aim for gradual changes.

• Reduction cuts: Shorten a branch to a lower point on the same limb or to a robust side branch. Why it matters: lowers height or spread while preserving a natural look and the branch collar, which supports faster healing.

Step-by-step trimming process

1) Assess and plan: Circle the tree, note deadwood, rubbing or crossing limbs, and any weak unions; decide which limbs to remove or shorten first.

2) Remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood: Do thinning cuts back to a healthy junction or trunk, keeping cuts clean and close to healthy tissue.

3) Open up the interior: Thin interior growth to improve airflow and light, but avoid removing so much that you expose a barren, stressed crown.

4) Tame height and spread gradually: If the top is too tall, shorten leaders or tall limbs by one-third to one-half, selecting a strong lateral to carry the new tip.

5) Address weak or crowded unions: Remove competing branches that create V-crotches or rubbing; aim for a well-spaced, more dominant structure with fewer crossing limbs.

6) For large branches, use the 3-cut method:

• Undercut about one-third to halfway through on the underside to prevent bark tearing.
• Make the top cut outside the undercut to release most of the branch, just outside the branch collar.
• Finish with the final cut at the branch collar, removing the stub cleanly and leaving a smooth seal.

7) Pause to evaluate: Step back, view from ground level, and check balance, canopy openness, and proportion; adjust remaining heavy cuts if needed in the same season or plan for next year.

Young vs Mature Pitch Pine

• Young Pitch Pine: Focus on establishing a strong central leader and an open, natural form. Favor light thinning over heavy heading; keep pruning minimal and targeted to avoid crowding and to encourage sturdy trunk development.

• Mature Pitch Pine: Prioritize safety and long-term structure. Remove deadwood and hazardous limbs gradually, thin to improve airflow, and avoid drastic mass reductions in a single season; maintain the tree’s natural character while correcting weak unions.

Cutting technique and tips

• Branch collar and stubs: Make cuts just outside the branch collar; never leave a stub behind.

• Angles and clean cuts: Make cuts with a clean edge and a slight upward angle to help shed water and promote rapid sealing.

• Large branch technique: When applying the 3-cut method, ensure the final cut reaches the branch collar to promote proper callus growth.

• Tool care: Keep tools sharp and clean to prevent tearing and disease transfer.

• Aftercare: Monitor moisture and avoid heavy pruning during drought periods; a light mulch ring helps protect roots.

Last tip: Step back after the final cut and check the overall balance from multiple angles; save any major reshaping for the next growing season if possible.

Essential Tools for Trimming Pitch Pine

Getting the right tools in hand makes trimming Pitch Pine safer and more effective. Below are core tools you’ll likely use, with practical notes tailored to Pitch Pine growth habits.

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

• What they’re best for: precise removal of small, dead, or cross-branching growth close to the trunk. For Pitch Pine, use hand pruners on thin shoots and cluttered growth that’s up to about 1/2 inch in diameter.
• Branch size they handle: up to roughly 1/2 inch (12–13 mm) for clean, one-handed cuts; for live wood, switch to a sharp bypass pruner to avoid crushing.
• Species-specific tips: keep blades sharp and clean; a sharp bypass blade minimizes bark damage and preserves live tissue. Cut just outside the smallest wood collar for quicker healing.

Loppers

• What they’re best for: medium-sized limbs and branches that are too thick for hand pruners but not yet in the realm of the saw. Great for shaping and reducing interior density.
• Branch size they handle: generally 1/2 to about 1-1/4 inches in diameter; some heavy-duty loppers can handle up to 1-1/2 inches with good leverage.
• Species-specific tips: use bypass loppers for clean cuts on live wood; avoid a “pinch” cut that can crush tissue. When removing branches, make a clean cut at the branch collar to encourage quick sealing.

Pruning Saw

• What they’re best for: larger limbs that can’t be reached comfortably with pruners or loppers. A saw is essential for removing longer trunks or thicker growth with a straight, controlled cut.
• Branch size they handle: effective for branches in the 1–3 inch diameter range; for thicker limbs, split cuts or staged reductions may be needed.
• Species-specific tips: keep the blade sharp and regularly check the teeth. Use a slicing motion to reduce tearing of bark and minimize wound size. For Pitch Pine, avoid letting resin gum up the blade—wipe clean between cuts when needed.

Pole Saw / Pruner

• What they’re best for: high or tall branches that you can’t reach from the ground. A pole saw is especially useful on Pitch Pine, where height is common and upper canopy shaping comes into play.
• Branch size they handle: manual pole pruners typically handle smaller cuts (up to about 1-2 inches), while powered pole saws can tackle roughly 3–4 inches, and occasionally thicker with caution.
• Species-specific tips: work from the top down in a controlled fashion; avoid splitting upward cuts that could tear bark. Maintain a steady stance and keep the head of the tool angled for a clean cut from a distance.

Essential Safety Gear

• What to wear: sturdy gloves, eye protection, a helmet with face shield, and sturdy, slip-resistant shoes. Safety gear helps prevent common injuries from falling branches, flying chips, or tool slips when working on Pitch Pine’s dense growth.

Tool Maintenance

• Sharpening and cleaning: regularly sharpen blades and prune saw teeth; wipe blades down after use to remove resin. Between cuts, especially on Pitch Pine, sterilize blades to prevent disease spread.
• Storage and care: dry tools after use; store in a tool rack or sheath to prevent rust and accidental cuts. Lubricate moving parts and tighten loose pivot points as needed.

When to Call in Professionals

• If you’re dealing with branches over 4–6 inches in diameter, or limbs that require multiple cuts to remove safely.
• If branches are near power lines, or you’re working on a very tall or mature Pitch Pine with questionable stability.
• For any job that would require climbing or specialized rigging, or if the tree shows signs of disease, decay, or structural flaws.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Trimming Pitch Pine

These missteps are common, but easily avoided with a plan. Each mistake can weaken pitch pine health, structure, and long-term longevity.

Topping

• What it is: Cutting off the top portion of the tree or the main leader to shorten height, leaving multiple, often awkward tops.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Pines rely on a strong central leader for stability and uniform growth. Topping disrupts natural form and promotes weak, competing leaders in the growth flush.
• Consequences: Poor structure, increased susceptibility to breakage in wind, crowded growth that reduces vigor, and rapid, unattractive re-sprouting.
• The right approach: Use gradual height reduction with careful reduction cuts that preserve the main leader and natural shape. Remove only what’s necessary each season and avoid drastic top removal.

Over-pruning and heavy crown thinning

• What it is: Removing large portions of the crown in one go or thinning far more than a pine can safely handle.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Conifers rely on their foliage for energy. Over-pruning robs the tree of photosynthesis, weakens vigor, and can leave exposed wood.
• Consequences: Slow growth, dieback, brittle branches, and a lopsided, stressed crown that invites pests and disease.
• The right approach: Target dead, diseased, or damaged limbs first, then thin gradually over multiple seasons. Aim to retain at least two-thirds of the live crown and limit heavy removals to 20–25% per year.

Flush cuts

• What it is: Cutting a branch back flush to the trunk or main stem, removing the branch collar.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Large wounds from flush cuts are difficult to seal and recover from, creating entry points for decay and pests.
• Consequences: Decay, reduced wound closure, potential pathogen spread, and weakened branch attachments.
• The right approach: Cut just outside the branch collar or back to a healthy lateral branch. Create clean, angled cuts that encourage proper healing and water shedding.

Stub cuts

• What it is: Leaving a short piece of wood (“stub”) where a branch was removed.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Stubs dry out and rot, serving as a doorway for decay and pests to move into sound wood.
• Consequences: Accelerated decay progression, girdling risk, and weaker overall structure.
• The right approach: Remove limbs flush to the point of origin; never leave visible stubs.

Heading cuts

• What it is: Cutting a twig back to a bud or stub rather than removing the limb at its point of origin.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Heading cuts trigger dense, weak, clumped growth at tips and can promote lion-tailing (see next).
• Consequences: Unbalanced crown, brittle growth tips, reduced long-term vigor, and a cluttered crown that’s harder to manage.
• The right approach: Prefer thinning and pruning at natural junctions rather than shortening to a bud. When you must reduce length, use gradual, targeted cuts rather than heading cuts.

Lion-tailing

• What it is: Removing inner growth and leaving only outer, elongated shoots at the ends of branches.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Creates a sparse interior canopy that blocks light to inner limbs and tempts weak, brittle outer growth.
• Consequences: Poor crown health, wind vulnerability, and increased pest/disease susceptibility in exposed wood.
• The right approach: Thin evenly throughout the crown, maintaining a balanced, open interior and avoiding concentration of growth at the tips. Preserve a healthy interior canopy.

Pruning at the wrong time

• What it is: Pruning during unsuitable seasons—late winter/early spring, or during peak heat—when the tree is most stressed.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Wounds heal slowly in cold or hot conditions, and pests are more active in warmer months. Immature growth is particularly vulnerable.
• Consequences: Wound opening, slower healing, increased pest pressure, and irregular growth patterns.
• The right approach: Prune in late winter to early spring before buds break, or after the first flush of growth in light, moderate conditions. Avoid heavy pruning in late summer or during drought.

Using dull or dirty tools

• What it is: Pruning with dull blades or tools that haven’t been cleaned between cuts.
• Why it’s harmful for Pitch Pine: Ragged cuts heal poorly, cambium is damaged more easily, and pathogens can spread between trees.
• Consequences: Slower healing, higher decay risk, and compromised branch attachments.
• The right approach: Sharpen blades, use proper pruning saws for larger limbs, and disinfect tools between trees to prevent cross-contamination.

When Is the Best Time to Trim Pitch Pine?

The transition to pruning should start with patience—Pitch Pine respond best when pruned during their dormant season.

Primary pruning window

Late winter to early spring, before bud break, is the primary pruning window for most Pitch Pines. Why this window works:

• Reduced stress: with no new growth underway, the tree can allocate energy to recover from cuts.
• Better wound healing: dormant tissue seals over cuts more predictably.
• Easier visibility: you can clearly assess structure and where to remove or redirect growth.
• Lower disease and pest risk: fewer active pathogens and insects around.

Seasonal considerations

• Best overall time (late winter/early spring) with benefits
• Minimal disruption to growth cycles
• More accurate assessment of hangers, co-dominant leaders, and structural weaknesses
• Safer for utilities and nearby landscaping, since foliage isn’t fully leafed out
• Acceptable alternatives
• Light corrective pruning in summer for small, targeted issues (e.g., removing a crowded branch or a diseased tip)
• Immediate pruning for dead, damaged, or hazardous branches, regardless of season
• Light shaping or thinning after a period of consistent rain and moderate temperatures if needed
• Times to strictly avoid
• Late fall: higher risk of fungal spores spreading and tissue damage from early cold buffers
• Active growing season for heavy cuts: resin and new shoot flush can stress the tree, and large cuts during heat or drought are harsh
• Very hot, dry spells: increased water demand makes cuts more stressful

Pitch Pine-specific notes

• Bleeding and sap: Pitch Pines are resinous but don’t exhibit dramatic sap bleeding like some hardwoods; however, avoid heavy cuts during winter thaws when new tissue is fragile.
• Growth impact: heavy pruning during spring growth can reduce vigor for the season; plan big reductions for dormancy and do smaller, incremental trims in season if needed.
• Nearby oaks and regional restrictions: in regions with oak wilt or other regional restrictions, avoid pruning oaks during warm months; this guidance doesn’t apply to Pitch Pine, but it can matter if oaks are part of the same landscape.
• Flowering/cones: pruning has minimal impact on cone set, but heavy pruning can reduce overall vigor if done during a raw bud development phase.

Influencing factors to consider

• Local climate/region
• Mild zones: prune a bit earlier in late winter if buds begin to swell late, but still before visible growth.
• Colder climates: wait closer to late winter, as late freezes can damage new wounds.
• Tree age/health
• Young trees: more forgiving; you can perform light shaping with fewer risks.
• Older or stressed trees: plan conservative removals; avoid large, multi-year cuts without professional guidance.
• Current conditions
• Avoid pruning during drought, after prolonged heat, or during/after a storm; wait for a stretch of milder, dry days if possible.
• If the tree is showing decline, signs of disease, or structural weakness, consult an arborist before major pruning.

Quick signs that your Pitch Pine needs trimming soon

• Dead or diseased branches
• Crossing or rubbing limbs
• Excessive height or poor structure
• Storm damage or broken tops
• Branches encroaching on structures, pathways, or power lines

• If you’re unsure, remember: the best time to prune Pitch Pine is during the dormant season, but small, targeted work can be done carefully in summer if needed. When in doubt, a quick consult with a local arborist helps ensure you preserve long-term health and safety.

Pitch Pine Trimming Tips for Different Regions?

Most common coverage map for Pitch Pine

Across regions, the approach stays practical: tailor timing, cuts, and care to local climate and disease pressure.

Northeast & Mid-Atlantic

• Timing: prune during the heart of dormancy, typically February through early March, before buds swell. Avoid pruning after warm spells when new growth could be stressed by cold snaps.
• Crown work: emphasis on light thinning to improve airflow and reduce disease risk, not heavy crown reductions. Limit live-crown removal in a single session to about 15–25%.
• Structural focus: remove dead, crossing, or rubbing limbs; shape for strong structure to shoulder snow loads without weakening the tree.
• Pests and wounds: monitor for needle cast or canker outbreaks after cuts; clean wounds with proper tool sanitation and avoid dirty cuts.
• Species interactions: Pitch Pine isn’t a heavy sap bleeder like maples, but still keep wounds clean and avoid large cuts during spring sap movement.
• Practical homeowner tips: mulch under the drip line to conserve soil moisture, especially after cuts; water during dry spells and watch for resin flow as a stress cue.
• Local flavor: Common in cities from Boston to Philadelphia and New York. For hyper-local timing, check our Northeast city guides for neighborhood-specific tips.
• Visuals to consider: Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Pitch Pine highlights here. Photo idea: well-pruned Pitch Pine in a cool, snowy landscape.

Southeast (Humid Subtropical)

• Timing: winter pruning is preferred; late winter to early spring windows help minimize fungal pressure in humid months. If a cut is needed in summer, keep it light and avoid the hottest hours.
• Crown work: aim for restrained thinning (roughly 5–10% of the live crown) to improve airflow and reduce humidity buildup within the canopy.
• Structural focus: remove weak attachments and balance the crown to reduce wind- and storm-damage risk without stressing the tree with large cuts.
• Pests and diseases: humid climates heighten fungal and beetle risks; prune with clean tools and monitor after pruning for signs of trouble such as needle blight or bark beetle activity.
• Species interactions: if oaks are nearby or other disease-prone hardwoods are present, adhere to strict winter-only windows for any wound-prone activities to limit spread.
• Practical homeowner tips: after trimming, mulch lightly to maintain soil moisture and help roots stay cool during hot months; hose or soak during dry spells.
• Local flavor: Common in Charleston, Savannah, and parts of Florida’s panhandle? See our Southeast city guides for localized advice.
• Visuals to consider: Insert map placeholder for regional climate variation. Photo idea: Pitch Pine thriving along a shaded Southeastern yard with airy canopy.

Great Lakes / Midwest

• Timing: late winter to early spring (February–April) is ideal, banking on deep dormancy before buds push; avoid heavy cuts in heat nor during late-summer humidity peaks.
• Crown work: favor light thinning to 10–20% of live crown; avoid drastic crown removals that leave the tree vulnerable to winter desiccation or sunscald on exposed bark.
• Structural focus: prune to open the interior and reduce snow-load risks; remove any branches that trap moisture or rub against each other.
• Pests and diseases: monitor for bark beetles and needle diseases common in warm, humid summers; plan cuts to minimize fresh wounds that pests can exploit.
• Practical homeowner tips: keep mulch over the root zone but away from the trunk; a little irrigation during dry stretches helps recovery after trimming.
• Local flavor: Common in Chicago, Detroit, and Milwaukee suburbs. For regionally specific tips, browse our Great Lakes city guides.
• Visuals to consider: Insert regional map highlight. Photo idea: Pitch Pine well-spaced in a Midwest yard catching winter sun.

Eco-friendly regional practices (shared thread)

• After trimming, reuse clippings as mulch where appropriate to conserve moisture and enrich soil; in drier regions, this reduces irrigation needs, while in humid regions it promotes soil health without creating pooling around the base.
• Leave a few small, untreated branches as wildlife habitat if safe and appropriate; or compost yard waste to support local soil life.
• Always check local regulations and timing windows to protect nearby oaks and other disease-prone species during humid seasons.
• When in doubt or for larger cuts, call a certified arborist to ensure proper technique and minimize environmental impact.

Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Pitch Pine highlights here. Common in rainy Portland or Seattle? Check our Pacific Northwest city guides for more localized advice. Photo placeholder: “Photo of well-pruned Pitch Pine in arid Southwest landscape.” Note on regional practices: pruning during the right season and avoiding wound zones near disease-prone neighbors helps protect your yard and local wildlife.

Care And Maintenance for Pitch Pine

Watering Tips

• Young trees (first 1–3 years) need steady moisture to establish deep roots. Deep, infrequent watering is best.
• Water deeply to moisten the soil to a depth of 12–18 inches, not just the surface.
• Seasonal adjustments:
• Dry summers or arid climates: water every 7–14 days for established trees; young trees may need more frequent watering during extended drought.
• Wet climates: rely on rainfall; avoid standing water and ensure good drainage.
• Look for tells:
• Under-watering: wilting or drooping needles, pale color, soil that pulls away from the edge of the root zone.
• Over-watering: soggy soil, yellowing needles, a mushy base or root rot odors.
• Pitch Pine note: once established, it tolerates drought but still benefits from periodic deep watering during dry spells. Avoid constant shallow dampening.

• How to water (quick steps):

1) Check soil moisture 6–8 inches down; if dry, plan a deep soak.

2) Water slowly around the tree’s dripline, not directly at the trunk.

3) Let the soil dry slightly between waterings; never leave the area consistently soggy.

Mulching

• Benefits: improves moisture retention, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature, and protects roots in winter.
• Apply 2–4 inches of mulch in a ring that extends at least 3–4 feet from the trunk.
• Keep mulch away from the trunk by 6–12 inches to prevent rot and pests; avoid volcano mulching.
• Best materials: natural organic mulch such as shredded bark or pine needles; avoid stones or dyed mulches that heat the soil.
• Species notes: for Pitch Pine, maintain airflow under the canopy; freshen mulch yearly as it settles.
• Maintenance: refresh as needed and keep edges tidy to discourage weeds.

Fertilization & Soil

• Start with a soil test when possible to determine nutrient needs.
• Generally use slow-release fertilizer in early spring if a deficiency appears; avoid late-season feeding.
• Choose organic amendments (compost, well-rotted manure) to improve soil structure and biology.
• Fertilizer type: use a low-nitrogen formulation or a balanced, slow-release mix; excessive nitrogen can promote soft growth that’s more susceptible to drought and pests.
• Application basics: apply within the root zone and inside the dripline, not directly against the trunk; follow label directions.
• Watch for signs:
• Nutrient deficiency: pale or yellow needles, slow growth.
• Excess nitrogen: very lush, but weak growth and increased susceptibility to drought and pests.
• Quick tip: in established trees, light, infrequent feeding is often sufficient; reserve heavier feeding for stressed specimens or poor soil conditions.

Pest & Disease Monitoring

• Common threats: borers and other wood-boring beetles, aphids and scale, needle blights, and root diseases; oak wilt is a less common threat but monitor for rapid decline.
• Early signs: thinning canopy, discolored or stripped needles, holes or frass in bark, oozing or resin by the trunk, unusual dieback, or mushrooms at the base.
• Prevention basics: ensure good airflow and spacing, avoid overwatering, prune to improve circulation, and keep tools clean between cuts.
• Action steps:
• For light, localized infestations with a healthy tree: prune affected limbs and treat as needed.
• For heavy infestations, rapid decline, or signs of root rot: contact a certified arborist for proper diagnosis and treatment plan.

Other Routine Care

• Winter protection: Pitch Pine is hardy, but young plantings may benefit from wind protection or light burlap shielding in extreme cold or windy sites; avoid plastic wraps; remove any wrap in spring.
• Storm prep and recovery: after storms, inspect for broken or hung limbs; prune damaged wood with clean cuts and remove debris promptly.
• Competing vegetation: keep grass and weeds away from the base to reduce water and nutrient competition; mulch helps with suppression.
• Girdling roots and trunk checks: regularly inspect the base for girdling roots or damage; if girdling roots are present, have them addressed by a professional.
• Routine checks: do a quick seasonal inspection of canopy density, soil moisture, mulch condition, and trunk health. A few minutes a season prevent small issues from becoming big problems.

Benefits of Professional Pitch Pine Trimming Services

A professional trim makes a real difference in safety, health, and long-term value for your Pitch Pine. Below are the key advantages you’ll gain when you hire certified arborists to handle the work.

Safety

• Pitch Pines can grow tall with heavy limb loads that threaten people, property, and power lines. Pros bring the right fall-protection gear, rigging, and technique to minimize risk.
• Improper cuts or unstable branches can lead to sudden failures. Trimming with proper safety protocols reduces the chance of injuries or collateral damage during storms.

Expertise

• Certified arborists understand Pitch Pine biology, including how to make correct cuts at the branch collar and where to avoid creating weak points.
• Early detection of disease, pests, or previous storm damage helps you address issues before they escalate, protecting the tree and your landscape.

Better outcomes

• Thoughtful pruning promotes healthier regrowth, better structure, and longer life for your Pitch Pine.
• Proper pruning reduces future risk of limb failure, storm damage, and excessive resin bleeding, which can slow growth or invite secondary problems.

Proper equipment & techniques

• Professionals use specialized tools and sterile cuts to minimize stress and prevent the spread of disease.
• Clean, precise pruning supports uniform growth and preserves the tree’s natural shape, avoiding over-pruning that weakens the crown.

Insurance & liability

• Licensed arborists carry general liability and workers’ comp, shifting liability away from you if an accident occurs on your property.
• Ask for a certificate of insurance (COI) to confirm coverage before work begins, ensuring protection for your home and landscape.

Time & convenience

• Pros handle access, cleanup, and disposal, saving you time and mess.

-Scheduling and coordination are streamlined, so activities like cabling, deadwood removal, or storm-prep pruning are completed efficiently.

Long-term value

• Regular, professional Pitch Pine pruning can prevent emergencies that require costly removals or repairs.
• A well-maintained tree enhances curb appeal and may contribute to property value, especially for mature specimens with strong form and healthy canopy.

For a quick snapshot, here are typical cost expectations:

• For a standard Pitch Pine trim, expect $200-$800 depending on size, location, and complexity. Larger or more mature trees, or services like cabling, removal of hazardous limbs, or near-structure pruning, will push toward the higher end.
• What drives price: height, access (ladders, lifts, or bucket trucks), amount of deadwood, and any additional safety or preventive work.

Typical ranges help you plan, but remember: hiring a qualified, insured professional often saves money in the long run by preventing costly damage and preserving tree health.

Signs it’s time to call pros

• Branches approaching 4–6 inches in diameter or larger, especially near structures or power lines.
• Visible disease, cankers, oozing resin, or unusual dieback.
• Tree is very tall, hard to access, or shows structural weakness like multiple weak unions.
• You’re unsure about the correct pruning technique or want to preserve the Pitch Pine’s natural form.
• You’re planning storm-season prep or need assistance with cabling, bracing, or deadwood removal.

If you’re weighing options, consider the long-term benefits of a professional Pitch Pine pruning plan. A certified arborist can deliver reliable, tailored care—ensuring safety, healthy growth, and peak landscape value. This is one of the clearest cases where the benefits of professional Pitch Pine trimming far outweigh DIY efforts, and it aligns with searches like “hire certified arborist for Pitch Pine,” “professional Pitch Pine pruning advantages,” and “cost of hiring pros for Pitch Pine care.”