Ultimate Guide to Trimming Pacific Silver Fir

Step-by-Step Pacific Silver Fir Trimming Techniques

Safety prep and tree assessment

• Safety prep and tree assessment: Wear gloves, eye protection, and a sturdy ladder. Check for dead wood, weak unions, and overhead hazards before you cut.

The three main pruning cuts for Pacific Silver Fir

• Thinning cuts: Remove interior branches to open the canopy, improve airflow, and reduce weight on crowded limbs. This helps prevent wind damage and keeps a natural conical form.
• Heading cuts: Shorten terminal growth to encourage new shoots from nearby buds. Use sparingly on firs, as heavy heading can create dense, weaker growth and unwanted brush on top.
• Reduction cuts: Shorten a branch back to a sturdy outward-facing lateral branch. This preserves the overall shape while decreasing height or reach, and it’s usually the most controlled way to manage size.

Step-by-step DIY trimming process

1. Identify goal-focused targets: address weak unions, excessive height, or a crowded canopy, and sketch a rough plan before touching a tool.

2. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood first: these cuts reduce disease risk and make it easier to see the tree’s structure.

3. Thin interior crowding: selectively remove branches that cross, rub, or crowd the center to improve light and air movement.

4. Lighten weak unions by balancing weight: reduce the limb on the denser side or remove a competing limb to strengthen the remaining branch attachment.

5. Manage height gradually: set a practical height goal and work toward it in small steps over multiple seasons to avoid stunting or shock.

6. Apply the 3-cut method for large branches:

• Under-cut about a third of the way through the branch on the underside.
• Make a larger top cut farther out to remove the weight.
• Finish with a final cut just outside the branch collar to remove the remaining stub.

7. Use reduction cuts when shaping the top or outer limbs: cut back to a healthy outward-facing lateral branch, ensuring the cut sits just above the branch collar.

8. Step back to evaluate: every few cuts, pause, step back 6–10 feet, and confirm the silhouette looks balanced and natural.

Young vs mature Pacific Silver Fir

• Young trees: Focus on establishing a strong, well-spaced framework. Favor conservative reductions and prioritize developing 4–6 evenly distributed main limbs with a clear leader.
• Mature trees: Prune more sparingly and progressively to avoid shocking the tree. Target structural issues, brittle or rubbing limbs, and overly dense canopies, but avoid removing large portions from the top all at once.

Cutting technique and angles

• Make cuts just above the branch collar, not flush with the trunk, to promote faster healing and reduce bark damage.
• Cut at a slight upward angle to shed water and prevent water pooling in the cut.
• Use clean, sharp tools: bypass pruners for small twigs, loppers for medium limbs, and a hand saw or pole saw for larger branches.
• For large removals, protect the bark with supports or a controlled undercut technique to prevent tearing.
• Do not seal wounds with paint or tar; firs heal best with clean cuts and normal growth processes.

When to step back and evaluate

• After major cuts, pause and view the tree from multiple angles and distances to ensure balance and a natural shape. If the canopy looks lopsided or unusually heavy on one side, adjust from nearby limbs rather than taking more top growth.

Take your time, prune gradually, and revisit after a season to refine the shape.

Essential Tools for Trimming Pacific Silver Fir

These core tools cover the majority of Pacific Silver Fir trimming tasks you’ll encounter.

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

• Best use: precise cuts on small live shoots and tips; bypass blades are the kinder choice for live wood to avoid crushing.
• Size range: effective on branches up to about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (18–25 mm). Use for fine shaping, tip work, and removing skinny defects.
• Species-specific tips: keep the blades sharp and aligned; cut just above a healthy bud or lateral branch to encourage clean healing. Work in sections to minimize tearing of soft fir bark.

Loppers

• Best use: bigger cuts that exceed pruner capacity, such as mid-sized limbs, up to about 2 inches in diameter.
• Size range: ideal for removing larger branches without a ladder, especially on visible lower limbs or scaffold limbs.
• Species-specific tips: choose bypass loppers to avoid crushing live wood; maintain blade alignment and use two-handed leverage for clean, controlled cuts. Pause to reassess angle if bark starts to tear.

Pruning Saw

• Best use: medium branches that are too thick for pruners or loppers, typically 1–3 inches in diameter.
• Size range: effective for mid-size cuts below reach height; curved or hand saws with sharp, fine teeth work best on fir wood.
• Species-specific tips: make relief cuts on the underside to prevent bark tearing, then finish from the outside edge; keep teeth sharp and dry to reduce resin buildup.

Pole Saw/Pruner

• Best use: reaching high, tall limbs or deadwood without climbing; essential for mature Pacific Silver Fir where branches overhang your space.
• Size range: handles branches roughly 2–6 inches in diameter, depending on blade length and tool quality; for larger diameters (4+ inches) or heavy limbs, call a pro.
• Species-specific tips: maintain a steady stance and avoid overreaching; work from the outer edge toward the trunk to minimize bark damage and reduce the risk of a split or snap.

Safety Gear

• Always wear gloves, eye protection, a helmet, and sturdy shoes. These pieces help prevent cuts from sharp tools, flying chips, and slipped footing when working around tall, resin-rich fir branches.

Tool Maintenance

• Sharpening: keep blades sharp to prevent crushing live wood and to keep cuts clean; sharpen pruners and loppers regularly, and resharpen saw teeth as needed.
• Cleaning and sterilizing: wipe blades with a clean cloth and alcohol between cuts, especially after pruning diseased or stressed wood to prevent disease spread within the tree or to others.
• Storage: clean and dry tools after use; store in a dry, protected place with blades covered or sheathed to prevent rust and accidental contact.

When to Call Professionals

• Branches >4–6 inches in diameter that require heavy cutting or tension release.
• Work near power lines or in contact with electrical infrastructure.
• Very tall, mature Pacific Silver Fir or trees with unstable limbs or significant structural decay.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Trimming Pacific Silver Fir

Avoid these missteps to keep your Pacific Silver Fir healthy and resilient.

Topping the tree

• What it is: removing the top of the tree or major leaders to force a shorter look.
• Why it hurts Pacific Silver Fir: firs rely on a strong central leader for vertical strength; topping creates weak, fast-growing shoots and destabilizes the crown.
• Consequences: reduced structural integrity, early branch splitting, decay-prone stubs, unsightly form, shorter lifespan.
• Correct alternative:
• Use gradual height reduction over several seasons.
• Cut back to a healthy lateral branch that can become the new leader.
• Limit any single reduction to about 10–15% of height per year.

Over-pruning (removing too much foliage at once)

• What it is: taking off a large portion of the canopy in a single prune.
• Why it hurts Pacific Silver Fir: significant loss of foliage slows photosynthesis and stresses the tree’s reserves.
• Consequences: dieback, weak regrowth, increased vulnerability to pests and disease, distorted shape.
• Correct alternative:
• Prune sparingly and selectively.
• Remove only dead, damaged, or crossing branches first.
• Plan a multi-year pruning strategy to stay under about 10–15% canopy removal annually.

Flush cuts

• What it is: cutting a branch flush against the trunk or cutting into branch collars, leaving a bare wound.
• Why it harms firs: conifers heal slowly; improper cuts invite pathogens and decay at the wound site.
• Consequences: decay, weak junctions, higher risk of branch failure.
• Correct alternative:
• Always cut just outside the branch collar.
• Do not leave stubs; minimize wound size.
• Avoid wound dressings for most conifers; let the tree callus naturally.

Stub cuts

• What it is: leaving a short stub after pruning instead of removing the branch back to the collar.
• Why it harms Pacific Silver Fir: stubs become entry points for decay fungi and pests.
• Consequences: internal decay, poor wound closure, potential limb failure.
• Correct alternative:
• Remove branches back to the branch collar or a healthy lateral branch.
• Ensure the cut is clean and smooth to promote rapid healing.

Heading cuts (retaining growth at the ends)

• What it is: cutting the end of a branch to stimulate multiple new shoots.
• Why it hurts firs: creates dense, weakly attached growth with poor taper and wind resistance.
• Consequences: top-heavy, structurally fragile canopy; frequent maintenance needed; higher breakage risk.
• Correct alternative:
• Favor thinning cuts that remove whole branches back to a main scaffold.
• For shaping, work gradually and avoid aggressive heading.

Lion-tailing

• What it is: removing interior growth while leaving a thick, dense layer of growth on the tips.
• Why it harms Pacific Silver Fir: reduces interior light and air movement, encouraging pests and disease; creates uneven crown.
• Consequences: brittle interior wood, higher wind damage risk, awkward silhouette.
• Correct alternative:
• Thin inside the canopy for better air circulation.
• Remove interior growth evenly and maintain a balanced crown.
• Keep a natural, tapered form rather than a ragged, top-heavy look.

Pruning at the wrong time

• What it is: trimming during unsuitable seasons (e.g., hot summer or deep in winter dormancy).
• Why it matters: firs heal more slowly in cold or heat stress, and new growth can be damaged by frost or sunscald.
• Consequences: slow wound closure, increased susceptibility to disease, uneven regrowth.
• Correct alternative:
• Prune during dormancy in late winter to early spring.
• Avoid pruning during peak heat or prolonged wet periods.
• Space pruning sessions to avoid simultaneous stress.

Using dull or dirty tools

• What it is: pruning with blunt blades or tools that haven’t been cleaned.
• Why it matters: ragged cuts hemorrhage more, wounds heal poorly, and pathogens spread more easily.
• Consequences: slower healing, greater decay risk, unattractive cuts.
• Correct alternative:
• Sharpen blades and clean tools between cuts (alcohol or a bleach solution).
• Inspect tools for damage before each session.
• Wipe blades dry to prevent rust and ensure clean, precise cuts.

When Is the Best Time to Trim Pacific Silver Fir?

For most Pacific Silver Fir, the best time to prune is during its dormant season. The primary pruning window is late winter to early spring, before bud break. In milder coastal zones, this can be as early as January; in colder inland areas, wait until March or early April. Pruning during dormancy reduces plant stress, supports faster wound healing, helps you see the tree’s natural structure, and lowers the risk of disease and pest entry.

Best overall time: Pacific Silver Fir dormant-season pruning

• Late winter to early spring before new growth starts.
• Benefits: easier access and visibility, cleaner cuts, and a safer schedule when ground conditions are steadier.
• Approach: plan ahead, inspect for hazards, and prune to shape and remove dead wood while the tree isn’t actively growing.

Acceptable alternatives

• Light corrective pruning in summer for minor shape tweaks or to remove small, undesirable growth. Keep cuts light and avoid heavy, drastic changes during hot weather.
• Immediate pruning for dead, damaged, or hazardous branches, regardless of season. If you have a safety concern, address it promptly.
• Steps for quick, safe removal:

1) Assess the branch from ground level.

2) Make a clean cut just outside the branch collar, removing small to medium limbs in sections if needed.

3) For large limbs, make a progressive cut in two steps to avoid tearing.

4) Clean your tools between cuts to prevent spreading pathogens.

Times to strictly avoid

• Late fall: higher risk of fungal spores and cold damage; the tree is preparing for dormancy, not for healing large wounds.
• Active growing season for heavy cuts on conifers: can stress the tree, reduce vigor, and risk brown tip burn.
• Summer heat and drought periods: increased water stress can hinder wound healing and recovery.
• If you must prune in these windows, limit to very light selective pruning and always monitor soil moisture.

Pacific Silver Fir–specific notes

• Flowering and reproduction: Pacific Silver Fir is a conifer that does not rely on spring flowering for vigor. Pruning won’t impact flowering, but it affects structure and health.
• Sap and resin: firs don’t typically “bleed” like maples or birches. If resin oozes after pruning, it’s a natural wound response. Avoid heavy cuts that create large wounds in a single session.
• Age and health: young trees are more forgiving of light shaping; older trees require extra caution and might benefit from professional evaluation if large cuts are needed.

Influencing factors to time pruning

• Local climate/region:
• Mild, coastal zones: closer to January–February.
• Cold, inland climates: closer to March–April.
• Tree age/health:
• Young, vigorous trees: more tolerant of small to moderate shaping.
• Mature or stressed trees: prefer conservative pruning; consider professional assessment for structural work.
• Current conditions:
• Avoid pruning during drought, high winds, or after a heatwave.
• After rain or snow, wait for the wood to dry to prevent rot and disease entry.

Signs that your Pacific Silver Fir needs trimming soon

• Dead or diseased branches
• Crossing or rubbing limbs
• Excessive height or weak/poor structure
• Interior crowding or rubbing against the trunk
• Storm damage or broken limbs

If you’re ever unsure, a quick consult with a local arborist can help tailor the timing to your microclimate and the tree’s health. This approach keeps your Pacific Silver Fir safer, stronger, and better shaped over time.

Pacific Silver Fir Trimming Tips for Different Regions?

Most common coverage map for Pacific Silver Fir

Pacific Northwest — Coastal / Rainy (Portland, Seattle, coastal towns)

• Timing: prune during a dry spell in late winter to early spring, after the threat of hard frost but before new growth kicks in. Avoid heavy cuts during peak wet months to reduce disease pressure.
• Pruning focus: thin rather than aggressively shorten. Remove dead, damaged, or crossing limbs; aim to open the crown to improve airflow and light penetration.
• Regional priorities: in humid coastal climates, airflow is king to prevent needle blight and fungal issues. Light, incremental removals are better than big cuts all at once.
• Frequency: most trees benefit from 1 year of light maintenance, then 1–2 years between larger pruning events as needed.
• Practical tips: mulch the base to conserve moisture and keep roots cool; after cuts, monitor for signs of pests or fungal growth.
• Visual and local note: Common in rainy Portland or Seattle? Check our Pacific Northwest city guides for more localized advice.
• Visual placeholders: “Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Pacific Silver Fir highlights here.” “Photo of well-pruned Pacific Silver Fir in a rainy coastal landscape.”

Pacific Northwest — Inland / Dry-Summer Valleys (Yakima, Spokane, Boise area)

• Timing: winter dormancy windows are best; avoid pruning during hot, dry spells. If you do prune in late winter, keep cuts light and selective.
• Drought-smart cuts: reduce leaf area modestly to lower water demand; favor slow, steady thinning over dramatic reductions.
• Crown care: prioritize removing dead or damaged wood and correcting structural issues without heavy shortening of long limbs.
• Frequency: plan for maintenance every 2–3 years unless structural work dictates otherwise.
• Practical tips: mulch to conserve soil moisture; ensure deep, infrequent irrigation after pruning to support recovery.
• Pest/disease watch: keep an eye out for bark beetles and spider mites in drier climates; a healthy tree resists more pests.
• Local cue: “Regional tips for Pacific Silver Fir pruning in the Inland Northwest” can be found in our city guides.
• Visual placeholders: “Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Pacific Silver Fir highlights here.” “Photo of a well-spaced inland fir with open crown to catch sun.”

Mountain West / Intermountain West (Denver, Salt Lake City, Bozeman)

• Timing: prune in late winter to early spring; avoid heavy pruning in late summer when heat and dryness stress the canopy.
• Sun and heat: protect new growth from sunscald by avoiding large cuts that expose bare wood; consider light shading if a heat wave hits after pruning.
• Drought adaptation: keep cuts light to moderate; preserve leaf area only as needed to maintain structure and health.
• Structural focus: remove deadwood and weakly attached limbs; keep a balanced silhouette rather than drastic reshaping in one season.
• Post-work care: mulch generously, and water deeply during dry spells to support recovery.
• Pests and disease: dryer climates can still harbor pests; stay vigilant for bark beetles after pruning and keep trees healthy to resist invasion.
• Local cues: “Mountain West city guides have regional tips for Pacific Silver Fir trimming” to tailor advice.
• Visual placeholders: “Insert region-specific climate map with fir highlights.” “Photo of a drought-smart trimmed fir in a high-desert landscape.”

Northeast & Midwest (Philadelphia, Cleveland, Buffalo, etc.)

• Timing: use a late-winter to early-spring window; avoid pruning in the heat of summer to reduce moisture stress and disease risk.
• Humidity considerations: humid summers can foster fungal issues; prune to maintain airflow and avoid dense pockets that stay damp.
• Crown management: limit heavy reductions to 20–25% of the canopy in a single season; focus on dead/damaged wood and crossing branches.
• Frequency: 1 good structural prune every 2–4 years, with small-touch maintenance as needed.
• Practical tips: monitor for rust and other fungal signs; loose, open canopies stay healthier in damp springs.
• Pests: watch for scale, borers, and other cambial feeders; keep trees vigorous to resist infestations.
• Local cue: “Regional tips for trimming Pacific Silver Fir in the Northeast” can be found in our city guides.
• Visual placeholders: “Insert map of U.S. climate zones with Pacific Silver Fir highlights here.” “Photo of a Northeast fir pruned for wind resistance and airflow.”

Eco-friendly regional practices (applies across regions)

• After pruning, leave clippings on the soil as mulch where safe; this feeds soil life and reduces waste.
• Bagging less and avoiding chemical sprays right after pruning helps wildlife and beneficial insects recover.
• Maintain a healthy irrigation schedule aligned with regional weather, encouraging soil moisture retention and root resilience.
• Final regional eco tip: leave clippings as mulch to improve soil health and support local wildlife.

Care And Maintenance for Pacific Silver Fir

Watering

• Watering Tips
• Young trees (planted or young saplings): water deeply 1–2 times per week during dry spells, ensuring the soil is moist to a depth of roughly 12–18 inches. Use slow, thorough irrigation rather than light sprays.
• Established trees: water deeply during prolonged dry periods, about every 2–3 weeks if rainfall is scarce. Aim for 2–3 inches of water per application to soak the root zone.
• Seasonal adjustments: in hot, dry summers, increase frequency; in consistently damp climates, reduce irrigation. In winter, generally cut back unless the site is exceptionally dry.
• Pacific Silver Fir-specific: these trees prefer evenly moist soil and do not tolerate prolonged drought. Mulch to help maintain moisture and reduce soil temperature swings.
• Signs to watch
• Underwatering: wilting needles, dull olive-green color, soil pulling away from the edges of the planting hole.
• Overwatering: yellowing needles, soft twig tips, persistent soggy soil, mushroom growth at the base.
• Quick troubleshooting

1) Check the soil 6–12 inches deep after irrigation to confirm moisture penetration.

2) If water runs off or drains quickly, apply smaller amounts more frequently to build steady moisture.

3) Adjust for rain: subtract irrigation as rainfall meets or exceeds local needs.

Mulching

• Benefits
• Improves moisture retention, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature, and helps protect shallow feeder roots.
• How to apply
• Spread a 2–4 inch layer around the tree, extending to a 3–4 foot diameter from the trunk. Keep mulch a clear ring around the trunk (avoid a volcano mound).
• Replenish annually or as it settles.
• Materials
• Use coarse, natural mulch such as shredded bark, wood chips, or pine needle mulch. Avoid dyed or sharp-edged materials that can irritate the soil surface.
• Species notes
• Keep mulch away from the trunk to prevent rot and rodent shelter. A small gap around the base helps preserve bark integrity and reduces disease risk.

Fertilization & Soil

• When/how often
• Do a soil test every 3–4 years if you’re unsure about nutrient levels. Base fertilizer timing on the test result and tree vigor.
• Fertilize in early spring after the last hard frost; avoid late-season feeding that can promote tender growth vulnerable to cold.
• Type
• Use a slow-release or organic fertilizer with a balanced ratio (for example, a neutral to slightly acidic mix). Apply according to label directions and local recommendations.
• Signs of nutrient issues
• Yellowing or pale needles, stunted or patchy growth, poor needle coloration despite adequate water.
• Pacific Silver Fir specifics
• Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can spur rapid growth that’s harder for the tree to harden off for winter. A balanced, slow-release formulation is typically best.

Pest & Disease Monitoring

• Common threats
• Pests: borers (including flatheaded borers), aphids, and certain scale insects.
• Diseases: needle cast or blight, cankers, and root-related decline from soil pathogens; unintended consequences from fungal issues in poor air movement regions.
• Oak wilt is not specific to firs but be mindful in mixed-species landscapes; avoid moving firewood between areas.
• Early signs
• Sudden or uneven needle discoloration, sticky exudates on bark, thinning canopy, stray holes, sawdust at the base, or dead limbs with cracked bark.
• Prevention
• Promote good airflow around the canopy, avoid overhead watering that wets the trunk, prune with clean tools, and remove diseased wood promptly.
• When to act or call pros
• If you notice widespread dieback, persistent thinning, or signs of boring damage, consult a certified arborist. Early detection improves outcomes.

Other Routine Care

• Winter protection
• For young trees or in windy, exposed sites, consider windbreaks or light burlap shielding during the coldest months. Keep the soil evenly moist through dry spells in late winter if possible.
• Storm prep and recovery
• Before storms, remove weak, crossing, or damaged limbs. After storms, inspect for cracks, splits, or loosening roots, and prune carefully to maintain balance.
• Competing vegetation
• Clear grass and aggressive weeds from the root zone rather than cultivating near the trunk. Mulch helps reduce competition and soil moisture fluctuations.
• Root and trunk checks
• Periodically inspect for girdling roots or signs of trunk damage from lawn care equipment. If girdling roots are suspected, consult a pro about safe removal or relocation.

This practical routine helps Pacific Silver Fir trees establish well, stay resilient, and thrive with minimal fuss. If you ever notice persistent issues despite good maintenance, don’t hesitate to reach out to a local arborist for a hands-on assessment.

Benefits of Professional Pacific Silver Fir Trimming Services

Hiring professional Pacific Silver Fir trimming services can protect your home and tree while delivering better, longer-lasting results. Here are the key advantages you gains when you hire pros.

Safety

• Pros handle heights, heavy branches, and potential hazards near power lines with proper gear and procedures.
• They manage rigging and fall protection to minimize risk to you, your property, and bystanders.
• For tall or mature Pacific Silver Fir specimens, professional crews reduce the chance of costly accidental damage during pruning.

Expertise

• Hire certified arborist for Pacific Silver Fir to leverage biology insights specific to this species—growth patterns, wound response, and typical disease/pest pressures.
• Experts know the correct pruning cuts (timely removal of weak growth, bleeders, and crossing branches) to avoid common damage.
• Early detection of issues such as cankers, needle blight, or bark beetles helps prevent spread and costly fixes down the line.

Better outcomes

• Strategic pruning promotes healthier regrowth with balanced structure, which is especially important for Pacific Silver Firs that can develop weak unions under heavy snow or wind load.
• Proper cuts improve long-term vigor, reduce limb breakage risk, and extend the tree’s life.
• Regular, professionally planned trims help maintain aesthetically pleasing form while preserving structural integrity.

Proper equipment & techniques

• Professional Pacific Silver Fir pruning advantages include using clean, sterilized tools and appropriate rigging systems.
• Specialists apply correct angles and cut flush with minimal wound surface, reducing stress and disease entry points.
• They tailor cuts to your tree’s size, location, and goals (thinning, clearance, or shaping) for optimal results.

Insurance & liability

• Reputable crews carry liability and, in many cases, workers’ compensation coverage, protecting you from financial exposure due to accidents or property damage.
• Verify proof of insurance and licensing; this ensures you’re not personally liable for incidents that may occur during work.

Time & convenience

• Pros handle the full process—from access and pruning to cleanup, debris haul-away, and disposal—saving you time and effort.
• Consolidating tasks with a single, qualified crew reduces disruption and accelerates completion, especially on larger or more complex Pacific Silver Fir jobs.

Long-term value

• Regular professional care can prevent emergencies, expensive repairs, and tree replacement later on.
• Thoughtful pruning can enhance curb appeal and, over time, may contribute to property value.
• Investing in maintenance now often yields cost savings by reducing the likelihood of storm-related damage or disease spread.

Cost considerations

For a standard Pacific Silver Fir trim, expect $200-$800 depending on size, location, and complexity. Larger or mature specimens, or services like cabling, removal, or extensive shaping, will rise in price. When you’re evaluating options, compare what’s included (cleanup, disposal, and post-trim guidance) and ensure you’re getting experienced arborists who specialize in conifers.

Signs it’s time to call pros

• Branches thicker than 4–6 inches warrant professional assessment and potentially pruning.
• Branches growing toward structures or power lines pose risk and should be evaluated by an expert.
• Visible disease symptoms (discoloration, cankers, needle drop) or poor overall vigor call for a professional diagnosis.
• Very tall, multi-trunk, or heavily storm-damaged trees require specialized equipment and safety planning.

If you’re weighing options, remember: benefits of professional Pacific Silver Fir trimming extend beyond immediate aesthetics. Hiring a certified arborist for Pacific Silver Fir can safeguard your investment, improve tree health, and give you peace of mind through a safer, cleaner, and more reliable trimming process. For homeowners exploring the value, this approach reflects the professional Pacific Silver Fir pruning advantages you want when caring for your landscape. Cost considerations fall into place when you see the long-term savings and property benefits.