Ultimate Guide to Trimming English Oak

Step-by-Step English Oak Trimming Techniques

Safety preparation and tree assessment

• Safety preparation: Wear PPE (helmet, eye protection, gloves) and inspect the tree for deadwood, weak unions, and nearby hazards before you begin. Plan your cuts from the ground and note any overhead lines or access constraints.

Pruning cuts for English Oak

• Thinning cut: Remove a branch back to a larger, healthy branch or the trunk, prioritizing a natural branching point. This reduces density and improves light and airflow through the canopy, which helps prevent disease and promotes healthy growth.

• Heading cut: Cut back to a bud or short shoot to shorten a limb. Heading cuts can trigger vigorous sprouts and a crowded crown on oaks if overused; use sparingly and mainly for minor shape adjustments or to redirect growth.

• Reduction cut: Shorten a limb to a healthy lateral branch with a good attachment angle. For oaks, limit reductions to manageable amounts per season (roughly a quarter to a third of the branch diameter) to avoid overstressing the tree and to preserve its natural form.

DIY trimming process (step-by-step)

1. Assess and plan from the ground: Identify weak unions, codominant leaders, deadwood, and crossing/rubbing branches. Decide which cuts will have the greatest positive effect on light, air, safety, and future growth.

2. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood first: Make clean cuts back to healthy tissue to reduce disease risk and make subsequent steps safer.

3. Stabilize weak unions and codominant leaders: If two leaders exist, remove the weaker one to prevent failure or splitting in the future.

4. Thin selectively to open the canopy: Target interior branches and crossings to improve airflow and light penetration. Aim for a balanced, breathable crown rather than a sparse outer shell.

5. Reduce height or length with care: For excessive height or long, unbalanced limbs, shorten outward-facing branches to a strong lateral. Use careful, gradual reductions rather than a single, drastic cut.

6. Clean up, evaluate, and step back: Clip stray stubs near the branch collar, tidy the work area, and then step back to evaluate crown balance and overall shape. If the silhouette looks uneven, plan a light follow-up cut in a few weeks.

Cutting technique and tool tips

• Branch collar: Make cuts just outside the branch collar to support proper wound closure and natural healing.

• Angles: Cut with a slight downward angle away from the trunk to promote drainage and reduce tear-out.

• 3-cut method for large branches:

1) Under-cut a small notch about a third of the way through the limb on the underside to prevent tearing.

2) Cut from the top outside of the notch to relieve weight and control the fall direction.

3) Complete the cut flush with the branch collar, removing the remaining stump cleanly.

• Wound care: Avoid applying wound dressings; let the tree compartmentalize naturally.

Young vs mature English Oak: quick guidance

• Young trees (under ~15–20 years): Prioritize establishing a strong central leader, minimize heavy heading, and guide outward growth to form a balanced, broad crown.

• Mature trees: Focus on safety and structural integrity. Limit large canopy reductions, remove hazardous deadwood, and address weak unions with precise cuts or professional help when needed.

Pause to evaluate

• After any major cut, step back and check crown balance, limb angles, and clearance. If something looks off, plan a minor adjustment rather than pushing for large changes in one session.

Essential Tools for Trimming English Oak

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

• Best for: shaping young growth, removing tiny diseased shoots, and clean cuts on small-diameter limbs. Suitable for branches up to about 3/4 inch (2 cm) in diameter.
• Species-specific tips: use sharp bypass blades to avoid crushing live wood; a clean slice reduces stress to the tree. Keep blades clean to prevent transfer of sap-borne pathogens.
• Quick technique: make cuts just outside the branch collar with a smooth, angled slice. For live wood, a clean, precise cut helps the oak heal faster.

Loppers

• Best for: mid-sized branches that are too big for hand pruners but not yet tree-threatening. Typically effective up to about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter.
• Species-specific tips: choose bypass loppers for live wood to minimize bark tearing; stay aware of the branch’s springiness to avoid nicks.
• Quick technique: use a controlled, two-handed stance and place the cut in a way that leaves a clean surface for healing. If a limb is in a tight space, a longer handle can help reach without overstraining.

Pruning Saw

• Best for: larger limbs that are beyond pruners and loppers, generally in the 1.5–3 inch (4–8 cm) range.
• Species-specific tips: keep the blade sharp and use a clean blade when cutting live wood to prevent crushing. A curved blade can help with cutting through oak fibers; a straight blade is handy for straight cuts.
• Cut method (quick 3-step):

1) undercut a couple inches from the trunk to prevent bark tearing,

2) make the top cut from the outside, cutting through the branch,

3) finish with a precise cut at the branch collar.

• Quick technique: position yourself to avoid binding the saw and maintain a stable stance. Always retreat the saw smoothly to avoid jamming.

Pole Saw / Pruner

• Best for: high or wall-sided limbs that you can’t reach from the ground, common in tall English oaks or broad canopies.
• Sizes and reach: look for models that reach into the canopy with a sturdy blade; suitable for branches roughly 2–6 inches (5–15 cm) in diameter, depending on the tool and battery or manual power.
• Species-specific tips: when working high, prune in small sections to prevent breaking larger limbs unexpectedly. Keep the blade sharp to minimize crushing live wood at height.
• Quick technique: perform work from a stable footing and, when possible, work with a partner spotting the limb’s fall. Avoid overreaching and use a controlled, gradual cut to prevent splitting.

Safety Gear

• Essential items: sturdy gloves, eye protection, a hard hat or protective helmet, and sturdy, slip-resistant footwear.
• Why it matters: oak limbs can shed bark, sap, or small debris; eye protection prevents chips, and a helmet protects from sudden limb movement or tool slips.

Tool Maintenance

• Sharpening and cleaning: sharpen blades regularly and wipe sap off after each use to prevent corrosion. Keep saw teeth clean and filed; a dull tool increases the risk of slips.
• Sterilizing between cuts: wipe blades with alcohol or a sanitizing solution between cuts to minimize spread of disease or pathogens through the cut surfaces.
• Storage: store tools dry, with blades lightly oiled to prevent rust. Use blade guards or sheaths for safety and longevity.

When to Call a Professional

• If a branch is thicker than 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) in diameter.
• If branches are high, near power lines, or involve heavy lifting beyond safe reach.
• If the tree shows signs of decay, large cracks, heavy dieback, or suspect disease.
• If you’re unsure about structural pruning or the tree’s overall health.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Trimming English Oak

These mistakes are easy to slip into, but they can seriously weaken an English Oak, invite disease, and shorten its life. Here are 7 common missteps homeowners often make, with practical, actionable alternatives you can use this season.

Topping

• What it is: Removing the top portion of the tree to reduce height, leaving jagged stubs.
• Why it’s harmful to English Oak: Oaks rely on a strong central leader. Topping disrupts structure, prompts weak, fast-growing regrowth, and creates large wounds that are slow to heal. It also increases wind load on remaining branches.
• Consequences: weakened structure, decay pockets, higher risk of limb failure, and ongoing maintenance.
• Correct alternative: Use gradual crown reduction and selective limb removal to lower height over several years. Make cuts just outside the branch collar and avoid removing more than a small portion in any one season.

Over-pruning or severe crown thinning

• What it is: Removing a large portion of leafy crown at once, or thinning the canopy heavily.
• Why it’s harmful to English Oak: English Oaks store carbohydrates in their foliage. Heavy pruning forces stress, reduces photosynthesis, and can trigger vulnerable regrowth with weak attachment points.
• Consequences: stress-related dieback, poor form, increased susceptibility to pests and disease, and slower growth.
• Correct alternative: Limit annual removal to about 10-20% of the canopy. Spread work over multiple years and focus first on dead, crossing, and rubbing branches to maintain a balanced crown.

Flush cuts

• What it is: Cutting flush against the trunk or a major branch, leaving a flat wound.
• Why it’s harmful to English Oak: There’s no branch collar to seal the wound, so decay organisms and pests can invade more easily.
• Consequences: large, slow-healing wounds, greater decay risk, and potential for structural failure.
• Correct alternative: Cut just outside the branch collar, leaving a clean, natural wound. If needed, use the three-cut method for large limbs to avoid bark tearing.

Stub cuts

• What it is: Removing a limb but leaving a short stub instead of finishing at the branch collar.
• Why it’s harmful: Stubs die back and become entry points for disease and pests; they make wound closure slow and uneven.
• Consequences: decay at the junction, weak attachment, and possible future breaks.
• Correct alternative: Use three-cut technique for large limbs: (1) remove the weight from beneath, (2) cut farther out to shorten the limb, (3) cut flush with the branch collar. Always finish at the branch collar if practical.

Heading cuts

• What it is: Cutting a limb back to a bud on the side of the branch (a “hedge-cut” style).
• Why it’s harmful: Heading cuts spur dense, vertical shoots with weak attachments and poor internal structure, especially on oaks.
• Consequences: a crowded, brittle crown, more maintenance, and higher breakage risk in wind.
• Correct alternative: Favor thinning and selective reductions. When shortening a limb, make reductions just outside the branch collar and avoid short, stubby shoots. Aim for a balanced, open growth habit.

Lion-tailing

• What it is: Removing interior leaves and foliage to create a thick, bare interior with a dense outer shell.
• Why it’s harmful: Poor air flow and light inside the canopy fosters fungal diseases and pest problems; heavy outer growth is unsupported by inner tissue.
• Consequences: higher humidity in the crown, disease pressure, and brittle regrowth.
• Correct alternative: Thin to open the crown evenly, remove dead or crowded interior branches, and maintain an airy, balanced canopy.

Pruning at the wrong time

• What it is: Pruning during active growth, wet seasons, or when beetles and disease vectors are active.
• Why it’s harmful: Wounds heal slowly in wet conditions and can attract pathogens. In some regions, pruning during certain seasons increases oak wilt and other diseases.
• Consequences: higher risk of infection, more follow-up pruning, and weakened trees.
• Correct alternative: Prune during dormancy in dry weather when possible, and align timing with local guidance for oak disease zones. Always sanitize tools between cuts.

Using dull or dirty tools

• What it is: Pruning with dull blades or without cleaning blades between cuts.
• Why it’s harmful: Dull blades tear bark and create ragged wounds; dirty tools can spread disease from one cut to another.
• Consequences: slower healing, larger wounds, and greater infection risk.
• Correct alternative: Sharpen blades and disinfect tools between cuts with a proven sanitizer. Use clean, precise cuts every time.

When Is the Best Time to Trim English Oak?

For most English Oaks, the best time to prune is during the tree’s dormant season. Primary pruning window: late winter to early spring before bud break. Pruning during this time reduces stress, supports faster wound healing, makes it easier to see the tree’s structure, and lowers disease and pest risk.

Best overall time

• Late winter to early spring before new growth starts (dormant season pruning).
• Benefits:
• Reduced stress on the tree
• Quicker wound healing when sap flow is minimal
• Clearer view of the branch structure for clean cuts
• Lower risk of attracting pests or encouraging disease

Acceptable alternatives

• Light corrective pruning in summer for minor issues, provided you keep cuts small and avoid heavy reshaping.
• Remove dead, damaged, or hazardous branches promptly, even if it’s not the ideal time.
• For aging or structurally compromised trees, consider scheduling a professional assessment and targeted work rather than a full renovation.
• After storms, you can address immediate hazards if safety or property is at risk.

Times to strictly avoid

• Late fall into early winter in many regions, as fungal spore activity and some pests can be more aggressive with fresh wounds.
• Active growing season for heavy cuts on bleed-prone species; oaks don’t bleed as dramatically as maples, but large cuts in spring/summer elevate stress and disease risk.
• Extreme heat or drought periods; pruning during stress weakens regrowth and overall vigor.

English Oak-specific notes

• Sap flow: English Oaks aren’t as prone to dramatic sap bleeding as maples or birches, but all oaks respond best to pruning when growth is minimal. Dormant-season pruning minimizes visible sap and simplifies wound evaluation.
• Oak wilt considerations: In regions where oak wilt is a concern, follow local guidelines. Winter pruning is generally safer, and if pruning in warmer months is necessary, disinfect tools and consider sealing cuts as recommended by localExtension services.
• Flowering and growth: Pruning in winter has little direct impact on spring leafing and flowering for English Oak, but avoid heavy pruning during active bloom periods to reduce stress on young growth.

Influencing factors to consider

• Local climate and region:
• In milder climates, some light pruning can be considered in late winter, but the prime window remains late winter to early spring.
• In colder areas, aim for the window a bit earlier in late winter before any budding begins.
• Tree age and health:
• Young trees recover quickly and tolerate light shaping in the dormant season.
• Older or stressed trees require gentler, gradual pruning and more attention to wound size and healing.
• Current conditions:
• Avoid pruning during drought, extreme cold snaps, or after root disturbances.
• If soil or root conditions are poor, postpone non-urgent pruning until conditions improve.

How to approach pruning this season (quick plan)

1. Inspect from ground level and up to identify dead, crossing, or rubbing limbs.

2. Plan a conservative cut sequence to preserve natural form; aim for gradual improvements over multiple years if needed.

3. Use clean, sharp tools; disinfect after each cut when working on multiple trees or suspected disease.

4. Make cuts at collar lines, just outside the branch collar, and avoid flush cuts to promote faster healing.

5. Monitor for signs of stress after pruning (wilting, excessive leaf drop) and adjust care accordingly.

Signs that your English Oak needs trimming soon

• Dead or clearly diseased branches
• Crossing or rubbing limbs
• Excessive height or uneven canopy
• Poor structure or included bark unions
• Storm damage with exposed structural wood

If you’re ever unsure, especially for older trees or suspected disease, a quick consult with a local arborist can help tailor the timing to your climate and tree health. Remember to search phrases like “best time to prune English Oak,” “when to trim English Oak trees,” “English Oak dormant season pruning,” and “avoid pruning English Oak in fall” when looking for region-specific guidance.

English Oak Trimming Tips for Different Regions?

Most common coverage map for English Oak

Across the country, regional climate shapes how we trim English Oaks.

Pacific Northwest

• Timing: Prune during late winter to early spring (December–February) after leaf drop, avoiding the wettest months to reduce disease risk.
• Structure and frequency: Aim for 1-2 light to moderate pruning sessions every 2–3 years rather than a single heavy cut. This keeps the canopy balanced without shocking the tree.
• Canopy priorities: Focus on thinning to improve airflow, remove crossing branches, and eliminate deadwood. Open interiors to reduce humidity pockets that invite fungal issues.
• Disease/pest considerations: In humid, disease-prone climates, stick to strict winter windows and avoid summer pruning. Clean cuts and immediate cleanup help minimize mold and rot.
• Homeowner tips: Mulch after cuts to protect roots in a soggy climate and monitor for aphids or borers post-trim. Keep an eye on new growth for signs of stress after pruning.
• Localized note: Common in rainy Portland or Seattle? Check our Pacific Northwest city guides for more localized advice.
• Visual placeholders: Insert map of U.S. climate zones with English Oak highlights here. Photo: well-pruned English Oak in a Pacific Northwest landscape.

Midwest (Great Lakes)

• Timing: Use the winter window (November–March) to minimize beetle activity. Avoid pruning during late spring and summer when oak wilt can spread.
• Structure and frequency: Plan major structural work every 4–6 years with lighter maintenance in between.
• Canopy priorities: Remove deadwood, avoid heavy crown reductions, and preserve a balanced crown to resist winter wind damage.
• Disease/pest considerations: Oak wilt pressure is a concern; disinfect tools between trees and prune only in winter to reduce spread risk.
• Homeowner tips: Mulch around the dripline to conserve moisture and inspect for signs of borers or sap flow after trimming.
• Localized note: Regional tips for trimming English Oak in the Midwest help you align with local beetle activity cycles.
• Visual placeholders: Insert a labeled diagram of common trimming angles here. Photo: English Oak with open interior canopy in a Midwest yard.

Northeast

• Timing: Prune in late winter to early spring (February–March) when temperatures are mild enough to avoid freeze-thaw damage.
• Structure and frequency: Use a 3–5 year cycle for major shaping, with minor yearly tweaks to maintain form.
• Canopy priorities: Prioritize airflow to reduce humidity buildup and minimize snow-load stress on outer limbs.
• Disease/pest considerations: Oak wilt risk is present but typically less aggressive than in the Midwest; winter pruning remains the safest bet.
• Homeowner tips: After cuts, mulch and water as needed during dry spells; monitor for pests such as scale or caterpillars in spring.
• Localized note: Is your oak in a snowy Northeast setting? See our Northeast city guides for local timing nuances.
• Visual placeholders: Insert a seasonal photo of an English Oak in snow-dusted landscape. Map placeholder: climate-zone overlay for English Oak in the Northeast.

Southeast

• Timing: Winter pruning (December–February) is preferred to avoid high humidity periods and oak pathogens; if winter isn’t feasible, prune in the cool early spring.
• Structure and frequency: Favor lighter, annual upkeep rather than large, multi-year crown reductions.
• Canopy priorities: Thin to improve airflow and reduce interior humidity; avoid heavy removals that invite disease during the humid season.
• Disease/pest considerations: In humid regions, oak wilt and other pathogens thrive; maintain strict winter windows and sanitize tools between trees.
• Homeowner tips: After trimming, mulch to conserve soil moisture and watch for borers or scale in the warm months following cuts.
• Localized note: Common in humid Southeast cities like Atlanta or Charlotte? Check our Southeast city guides for localized advice.
• Visual placeholders: Insert a photo of an English Oak thriving in a lush Southeastern yard. Placeholder: map of regional disease risk by state.

Southwest

• Timing: Prune in the cool season (January–March) to avoid the extreme heat of summer and reduce water stress.
• Structure and frequency: Use small, frequent maintenance rather than large crown reductions; drought-tolerant pruning supports long-term health.
• Canopy priorities: Open the canopy enough for airflow and light penetration while preserving shade that helps adjacent structures and soil moisture.
• Disease/pest considerations: Low disease pressure, but sunscald on exposed trunks can be a concern—protect new wounds and avoid exposing bark to harsh sun.
• Homeowner tips: Mulch deeply around the root zone to conserve moisture; water after pruning if rains are scarce and watch for new pest activity.
• Localized note: Planning English Oak pruning in arid Southwest settings? See our Southwest city guides for targeted timing.
• Visual placeholders: Insert a photo of an English Oak in a desert-to-dry landscape. Map placeholder: climate-zone highlight for the Southwest.

Eco-friendly regional practices you can adopt anywhere: leave smaller clippings as mulch, avoid grinding all debris, and support local wildlife by leaving a few dead branches for nesting cavities where appropriate.

Care And Maintenance for English Oak

Watering

• Young trees (0–3 years): water deeply 1–2 times per week in dry spells, soaking soil to a depth of 12–18 inches. Use a slow-release method like a soaker hose or drip line.
• Established trees: water deeply but less often. During dry periods, aim every 2–4 weeks, adjusting for rainfall. Avoid standing water around the root zone.
• Deep vs. frequent: deep, infrequent watering encourages strong, deep roots. Frequent shallow watering creates shallow roots.
• Seasonal adjustments: more water in hot, dry summers; less in areas with consistent rainfall. In winter, irrigation is typically minimal unless soils are dry and drought-stressed.
• Signs to watch: under-watered trees show leaf curling, edge scorch, and wilted foliage; over-watered trees show consistently soggy soil, yellowing leaves, and a rubbery root zone.
• Oak-specific note: English Oaks tolerate some drought once established but prefer steady moisture and good drainage. Avoid waterlogged soils, which invite root rot.

Mulching

• Benefits: mulch locks in moisture, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature, and protects shallow roots.
• How to apply: spread mulch 2–4 inches thick in a circular layer around the tree. Keep mulch 6 inches away from the trunk to prevent collar rot.
• Width and shape: extend mulch to at least the drip line (often 3–4 feet in radius for a mature tree). Do not mound into a volcano shape.
• Best materials: shredded hardwood mulch, cedar, or well-composted leaf mulch. Avoid fresh wood chips that tie up soil nitrogen.
• Species notes: for English Oak, maintain a clear zone around the trunk and monitor for any signs of rot at the soil line. A wide, even mulch ring supports roots without trapping moisture against bark.

Fertilization & Soil

• When/how often: start with a soil test every 2–3 years. Fertilize only if a deficiency is shown or in early spring for young trees; mature trees often do not need annual feeding.
• Type: use slow-release or organic options (balanced formulas or composted materials). Follow label rates to avoid over-fertilization.
• Signs of nutrient issues: yellowing (chlorosis), stunted or uneven growth, small leaves, or poor leaf color.
• English Oak-specific: avoid excess nitrogen, which can promote excessive foliage at the expense of structural wood. If applying lawn fertilizer, keep it well away from the trunk and follow soil test guidance.

Pest & Disease Monitoring

• Common threats: borers (look for exit holes or frass), aphids in spring, and fungal issues such as oak wilt, leaf spot, or powdery mildew. Regional risks vary, so know your area.
• Early signs: thinning canopy, sudden leaf scorch, dieback, oozing sap, bark irregularities, or abnormal growth rings.
• Prevention: maintain good airflow through the canopy, prune with clean tools, avoid wounding bark, and promptly remove diseased or infested wood.
• When to act: minor pests can often be managed with routine care and proper watering. Suspect oak wilt or widespread infestation deserves professional assessment from an ISA-certified arborist or local extension service.

Other Routine Care

• Winter protection: in very cold zones or for young trees, consider a light trunk wrap or windbreak to reduce sunscald and desiccation on exposed bark. Remove wraps in spring.
• Storm prep and recovery: inspect after storms; remove broken or rubbing branches, and avoid heavy pruning right before a storm. Hire a pro for large or high limbs.
• Competing vegetation: keep turf and dense ground cover away from the root zone within the drip line; a mulch-only zone reduces competition and soil disturbance.
• Girdling roots and trunk damage: periodically check the base for circling roots or cracks. If girdling roots are found, consult a pro for careful removal or management.

If you’d like, I can tailor these tips to your climate, soil type, and the age of your English Oak for a personalized maintenance plan.

Benefits of Professional English Oak Trimming Services

Hiring professional English Oak trimming services delivers practical, reliable benefits for your tree and your property.

Safety

• Working at height on a tall, mature oak introduces significant risk. Pros bring proper ladders, ropes, and rigging to control weighty branches.
• They assess hazards like approaching power lines and nearby structures before a cut is made.
• They plan the job to minimize personal and property risk and ensure a clean, controlled drop when removing limbs.

Expertise

• Certified arborists understand English Oak biology, growth patterns, and typical failure points.
• They choose correct cuts (and avoid over-pruning) to protect vascular flow, reduce stress, and encourage healthy regrowth.
• Early detection of disease, pests, and decay keeps you from overlooking issues that could spread to other parts of the tree. Hire certified arborist for English Oak to ensure these signs aren’t missed.

Better outcomes

• Thoughtful pruning supports healthier regrowth, stronger structure, and longer life for the tree.
• They address weak unions, bleeding (bleeder) tendencies, and storm-vulnerability factors common in English Oaks.
• By planning structure first, they reduce the chance of needing costly corrections later.
• These professional English Oak pruning advantages translate to a healthier tree and a safer yard.

Proper equipment & techniques

• Pro use of professional-grade saws, pole saws, and rigging reduces stress on the tree.
• Clean, sterile cuts minimize infection risk and promote faster sealing of wounds.
• They follow best-practice pruning sequences to preserve crown balance and natural form.

Insurance & liability

• Licensed pros carry liability insurance and, often, workers’ compensation, protecting you from out-of-pocket costs if mishaps occur.
• Request proof of insurance and a written scope of work before starting.

Time & convenience

• Pros handle the job efficiently, including cleanup and disposal of branches.
• They can work around your schedule and minimize disruption to daily life.
• You gain a neatly pruned oak without spending your weekend on ladders.

Long-term value

• Regular, professional English Oak pruning can prevent emergencies and reduce costly interventions later.
• A well-maintained canopy improves curb appeal and may support better property value.
• You benefit from preventative care rather than reactive fixes.

Cost of hiring pros for English Oak care

• For a standard English Oak trim, expect $200-$800 depending on size, location, and complexity – higher for large/mature specimens or added services like cabling.
• Costs rise with access challenges, special requests (deadwood removal, cabling, or crown reduction), and required cleanup.

Signs it's time to call the pros

• Branches larger than 4-6 inches in diameter indicate potential structural issues or interference.
• Branches near structures, driveways, or power lines pose ongoing risk.
• Visible disease, decay, or fungus; signs of infestation or weak hollows.
• The tree is very tall or hard to access, making DIY pruning unsafe.

If you’re weighing options, remember that the benefits of professional English Oak trimming go beyond immediate aesthetics. The safety, expertise, and long-term care a certified arborist provides reduce risk, support the tree’s health, and protect your investment in your landscape. For more insight, consider exploring resources on the cost of hiring pros for English Oak care and the advantages of hiring a certified arborist for this species.